Commonly known as Birla Putty, as
Birla White Cement was the initiator of the Product, it is manufactured now
even by paint companies and there are many local players now in the market
with this kind of product.
Market price range of Local Variables
start from Rs 325/- to Rs 500/- for 20Kg Pack to branded products like Birla or
JK or others
So some common brands are
1) Birla Putty
2) JK White Putty
3) Jensolin Putty by Jenson &
Nicholson
4) Asian Paints White Cement Putty
5) British Paints, and many more, like
SIKA , Roofit etc.
Common Packaging Available: 20 Kg packs
(with Rs 40 to Rs 50 token inside), 40 Kg Packs (Without Token)
About the Product
Ingredients: White Cement + Polymers
+ Fillers to make it smooth and reduce the need of curing.
The product has now become very
common and almost every new construction be it private home or commercial
construction, the market has adopted the product blindly.
The Perception is that it provides a
very smooth surface and reduces the consumption of Paint.
Some of the Companies are also
promoting and giving huge advertisement that the putty application protects
your paint!
In Reality.....
- The over smoothness of cement putty surface reduces the consumption of the paint. This means that it also reduces the Dry Film Thickness of the Paint when applied on the Putty. What it effectively does is that the minimum recommended quantity required for the paint to perform specially on the exterior surface per square feet is reduced to half. So it also reduces the life and performance of the paint. As the minimum material required to form a protective layer to withstand Sun Rays, Rain and the air pollution effectively is not there. Due to the over smoothness of the Putty surface the Consumption is only 40% of the recommended material required for the expected performance of paints.
- Cement Putty does not protect your paint from of moisture ingress in the Surface ! Some of the Interior Design Magazines carry full page ads screaming that the White Cement Putty protects your paint from moisture and prevent it from peeling off !
- The fact is, paint peels off whenever when there is moisture in the surface of the wall, which may be due to waterproofing issues or absorption of water in the wall due to proximity of water. Now Cement putty itself will not come or "De-Bond" due to moisture, but the Paint, which forms a non-breathable layer will always peel off. No matter what the surface is i.e. White Cement Putty or Simple Putty of POP. it wont matter. If there is moisture in the surface the paint cannot survive, be it of any quality. So the false perception is created that use of white cement putty inside the structure will keep the paint safe.
No Doubt the putty application does
make walls look smooth, but this is more relevant in the case of exterior walls.
On the interior walls, no cement putty application can ever match the POP finish.
On the interior walls, no cement putty application can ever match the POP finish.
Even if one has to apply putty
following care should be taken.
- Properly curing the surface before application is a must. Especially in hot regions. The Surface should always be moist before application of Putty. Sadly, in 95% cases the curing is not done.
- It will be always good to do one curing after the application of Putty coat.
- One coat is enough for the surface to be sealed as the second and third coat of putty makes a super smooth surface which is detrimental to anchoring of the exterior paint and thus reduces its performance.
Suggestions for Long Life of Paint
on Exterior Walls
- Spend 50 Paisa extra on plaster to get a leveled and smooth plaster in two layers.
- Add waterproofing additive to plaster to make it watertight and this also improves the finish of the plaster.
- If you have applied putty already , then do not go for the high end paint like Asian Paints Brand : Apex Ultima or , Weathershield Max by ICI Dulux (Akzo Noble) etc. , as you will not get the expected performance in terms of life of paint or properties like crack bridging etc. Go for normal variety like Simple Apex , Weathershield of normal quality. As there is quite a difference in the price of the qualities of paint.
- If white cement putty is applied, then it should be painted within one week, as after 15 days the Putty self-seals due to chemicals mixed in it to make it smooth. There are also lot of cracks generated .
- If Putty has been applied for more than 20 days and left unpainted then its surface should be thoroughly sanded down with 80 No Emery Paper.
Facts
- Cement Putty Does not increase paint life. Rather reduces it in cases of Exterior use.
- Saving in terms of reduced consumption of paint is nullified by the increased cost of putty application
- Cement Putty application will nullify the best qualities of premium exterior paints like Apex Ultima by Asian Paints or Weathershield Max or any other premium paints of existing products
- It is more practical to invest in higher quality of Paint rather than the application of Putty on exterior walls.
- Interior wall finishing will come much better than if you go for a POP finish as it would almost be the same cost as Cement putty while giving many times better result.
- If you use Cement putty for interiors then you won’t be able to use High End Plastic Paints like Dulux Velvet Touch , or Asian Paint Royal as all the waves in the wall surface will be amplified and the walls will look bad when the lights will be turned on.
- All these high quality paints look good only on a leveled POP surface which a white cement putty can never achieve.
- Cement Putty Layer Thickness is hardly 1.5 mm while POP is up-to an Inch Thick which can cover all kinds of undulations of the plastered wall.
My Take: Yes, Cement Putty Should be avoided from any
sensible finishing system.
i am totally confused, please suggest about fresh painting on internal wall(my plaster is very rough).
ReplyDeleteHi Abhinabha
ReplyDeleteYou should go for POP or Plaster of Paris.
This will level out the roughness and provide a smooth base.
This should cost around 5 to 6 rs per sq.ft including labor with material.
The cost per sq.ft may go higher if you need superfine leveling.
Go for waterbased primers and normal plastic paint or acrylic emulsion. I would not suggest something like Velvet Touch or Royale. Go for normal first quality plastic paint.
Regards
Hemant
Hi Hemant,
ReplyDelete1) In what case cement putty is good?
2) Is it good to plaster(cement sand) internal wall and then apply pop or white putty on clc blocks or aac block. I have used clc blocks.
3) Can I apply pop directly on clc block. If there is leakage in wall and water comes in contact with pop. will POP be affected.
Thanks in advance.
Regards Jitendra
Hi Jitendra
DeleteSorry for Delay in response was caught up with projects.
Ok
Cement Putty is "Good" only when the external plaster may be too rough. In this case you may apply Cement Based White Putty in One Coat only, i.e. Just one coat application instead of recommended 2/3 coats by the companies. This will help you in achieving a smoother finish, but will not make the surface too smooth that is ultimately detrimental to external painting systems performance.
2) It is always better to apply a cement mortar plaster for internal walls else POP application will have unnecessarily more consumption and also will be prone to moisture effect in case your walls/brick develops a crack and leak moisture.
2.1) It is always a good practice to use additive in cement plaster to make it watertight and also improve the plasticity for a better final finish. You can check MC-Bauchemie or Fosroc or Dr Fixit sytems.
My favorite additive is Putz Dichtament from MC-Bauchemie. It just cost like 5 or 7 paise per sq.ft but worth it.
3) POP as a material is always sensitive to moisture. You will have to repair it in case there is moisture ingress in the surface.
3.1) Any paint whether applied on POP or White Cement Putty or even on directly on plaster will go bad if there is moisture ingress in the surface. If the water falls on top of it then there is generally no problem. i.e while rains or washing. But when the moisture get in the surface it breaks and de-bonds the paint film.
Hope I have been able to solve your queries.
Cheers
If you apply putty as one coat there might be level differences which may affect setting of putty. So it is advisable to apply in two coats but restrict the thickness to 1.5 mm
DeleteDont go for POP even in interior walls, if there is any chance of ground water seepage, or humidity. POP cannot withstand any kind of moisture.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteMy newly plastered walls are painted with birla white cement, now i want to go for asian paints royal shyne.
can i use asian paints powder wall care putty on birla white cement,pls suggest ..
Regards,
Hayat.
Greetings Hayat
ReplyDeleteIf you are talking about asian royal, then it is logical you are talking about Interior Area of your house.
If Your current surface is brick wall>cement plaster>birla white cement coating. Then I would strongly recommend not going for Asian Royal Shine.
Because as soon as your final coat is done using Asian royal Shine , all the undulations will become amplified and the UN-eveness of the surface will become highly visible.
So even though it will have sheen and smooth finish it will look glaringly uneven and thus unpleasant.
Plaster of Paris is the surfacing system which gives an even enough base for this high quality sheen paints.
At present I would recommend that you go for A normal matt finish acrylic emulsion. This your paint dealer will let you know,. It is of first quality but with no sheen and hence does not amplify the waves in plastered surface.
Regarding your second query, yes you can can apply Birla Putty over existing birla white cement coating. Remember to prewet the suface before applying birla putty.
CHeers
Thanks a lot for the Reply,...
ReplyDeleteFor interiors My painter applied first Birla white cement by pre-wetting the surface as the first layer after 10 days he applied asian paints wall putty 2 coats on the dry walls of white cement.after leveling with 320 grade emery sheet he is going to apply asian paints deco wall primer E02.
Please let me know is it the correct process of painting, is there any issue with this process ????
Regards,
Hayat.
Hi Hayat,
DeleteGuess by now work is over. I am that late.
1) There was no compulsory need of Asian Paints Wall Putty. You have installed a cement putty base and an acrylic putty base. The same results could have been achieved by just cement putty base.
Rest of the process was Ok.
Hemant
Hi,
ReplyDeleteDoes curing the wall after applying putty will affect any thing.?
Please suggest.
Regards,
Hayat.
Hi Hayat
ReplyDeleteAs per your first query. Your Painter is doing the process OK.
Second Query is for curing. As far as interior surfaces are required you need not cure it. As it is not in direct sunlight.
Take Care
my exterior wall is of rough finish and applied with birla white cement. Inorder to get smooth finish, is it ok to apply Birla wall putty and then go for Apex weather proof emulsion?
ReplyDeleteHi Manoj.
DeleteI understand that your external plaster surface is broom finish and coated with white cement wash.
In order to get smooth finish you can go for Ready Plaster is that is available in your region.
As using Cement Based White putty shall first of all cost too much to fill up a broom finish plaster surface.
You can also go for fine plaster after wetting your existing surface with a mix of SBR polymer , water and cement.
Hemant
Dear Hemant,
ReplyDeleteI am new to your blog, got very informative.
My building is a new construction, used Dr FIXIT solutions on plaster for both outside & inside wall. My question is, if I go for exterior paint without cement putty, first using samosam paint & after any apex outer finish. Is it will be a good choice or just SUGGEST ?
Hi There.
DeleteAppreciate your reading my blog. Hope it helps. It is good you used additives for Plasters.
I would not suggest to use Snowcem Paint or any cement based paint. There is no need for it and it is anyways an obsolete system.
In my opinion you should go for a Thing coat of Apex/Weather Shield ie mix one part paint with one part water and apply as primer. This is technically the best way to apply a primer coat for normal exterior finishes.
Alternately you may go in for Exterior Acrylic Primer of all the commonly available brands.
If you are looking at a High Performance system I would personally suggest Prime-Bond by Dr Beck. It should be available in your city with any good Construction chemicals dealer.
Dear sir, my house is under putty stage, i had given a lumpsum contract for 2 coat birla putty in and out. Previos plan was to do white wash but contractor instructed to go for putty which is good for walls and also said paint will last long. Is it true? Also he already have agreed rate for painting. Reading your blog understand that paint qty can be reduced. Also let me know what number of emery paper to be used if i dont paint the putty area for a year. Now only 1 quote of putty is done, is it ok to complete with one quote and if i can save for 1 quote expense uf contractor agree.
ReplyDeleteHi Jal.
DeleteContractors will always insist to go for Birla Putty, First its rate is higher so they get better margins plus all these putties provided an incentive token of 5o Rs to the buyer. So you see why they insist for it.
If you don't paint the putty applied for an then before applying paint in future sand the surface with 80-100 No Emery Paper to open up the smooth surface. This enables better grip of the paint.
Yes If one coat has been done and the contractor agrees to reduce price for the same please go ahead and paint the exterior walls.
For interior I anyways don't recommend cement based putty due to finishing issues and cost vs value offered as explained in my blog
Hi
ReplyDeleteI want to paint my room.. But I really dont know from where to start with.. The walls are really rough and not so finely surfaced.. I live in Kerala, so the climate here is highly different..As the first thing what should I do ???
Hello Aishwarya
DeleteA bit late but still I am replying.
As told by you the walls are rough.
Rough can mean
1) Plaster roughened by broom so as to apply POP or Plaster of Paris Later on or
2) The surface is Uneven like it has waves ?
In the first case , Use POP layers to level out and smooth-en the surface. Also see that you apply primer on the POP. I suggest using a water based primer over POP. Go for Acrylic Emulsion of any good brand.
In case moisture is seeping in the walls then it would need some kind of waterproof treatment.
IN the second case if the surface is Uneven , apply Acrylic Putty if you have the budget or apply putty made with whiting + first quality enamel paint. Hope your local applicator and dealers will be able to understand this. Do not make putty in Whiting+linseed oil+second enamel as what typically painters do !
I would suggest to go for regular Acrylic Emulsion not the expensive ones. Also these days all brands have an economic quality of Acrylic Emulsion better then Distemper. Do not go for Distemper as it is not any more value for money system.
Hope that was easy for you to get.
Hello Sir,
ReplyDeleteNow I am planning to renovate the house, the walls are not super smooth so I don't think there was any earlier application of putty or POP.
I have gone through your blog and understood that the cost of wall putty is around around 6 rs, want to use an economic method which has longer life.
You suggested that if I use the POP/putty the walls would be smoother so reduce consumption of paint but there is added cost of POP/putty.
So my query is
1) If I want to water proof from seepage then I need to use one of material mentioned above. But which method would give the best result direct paint/pop/putty.
2) What is the procedure for painting if we want to use direct approach.
3) Are there any local putty also made, which would be cheaper but essentially similar quality.
Hi Abhishek
DeleteI would answer point wise as asked by you
1) If I want to water proof from seepage then I need to use one of material mentioned above. But which method would give the best result direct paint/pop/putty.
Ans > Better result in finishing would always be POP. You need to chisel out the existing surface also called punning and then apply a layer of POP to absolutely level the surface. Then you may go for high end soft sheen paints also such as Royale or Velvet Touch
2) What is the procedure for painting if we want to use direct approach.
Ans: If you want to apply Paint directly the following is the method
a) Sand the existing painted surface by 80no emery paper. As the previous old paint need to be opened up for key to the new paint surface
b) Repair cracks and any damages to the surface by using a crack filler such as MC-Sunfilla powder repair mortar or similar item available in your region. Check with your paint/hardware vendor
c) Apply One Coat of Water based Primer. It should be of First Quality. Dont go for the cheaper ones as primer is important for final finishing
d)Apply paint as per your budget i.e. Economy Acrylic Emulsion or First Quality Acrylic Emulsion. DO not go for high end paint such as Velvet Touch or Royale.
Apply with intervals of 6 to 8 hours.
Dilution should not be more the 15% to 20% of the material.
If you are going for darker shades, I suggest mixing some tinter in the Primer also. This will help in faster finishing of dark/Accent shades
3) Are there any local putty also made, which would be cheaper but essentially similar quality.
Local Cement Putties are many a dozen. The hand made old method of putty is using whiting (chalt mitti) + first quality Enamel Paint only.
I hope I have covered your queries.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteMy house is painted 7 years ago with Asian Paints Ace. Now I am planning to repaint it. My main is to make it water resistant.
Previously I thought of crack filling with wall care putty and then apply Dr. Fixit prime seal and then two coats of Dr.Fixit raincoat to make my home water resistant.
My painter has filled in cracks with birla wall care putty and applied a coat of birla wall care putty as paint. Can I use the second coat also with birla wall care putty ss paint to make the walls water resistant.
Please suggest if it is good to go with second coat of wall care as paint and finish.
Thanks
Raghu
Hi Raghu
DeleteSo we are taking exteriors.
I you are using Birla Wall Care Putty as Paste >
Then NO the system you are adopting (Using Birla Wall
Care Putty) is not meant to withstand temperature variations as this is essentially a brittle system and all the cracks will re-open in sometime.
Also two coat application of Birla Wall care will make surface very smooth and the performance of your Raincoat system will also suffer due to following reasons
A) Consumption of Coating will go down by half. There by dry film thickness will decrease.
B) Anchoring of the coating will also go down.
If you are applying Birla Wall care putty as diluted like paint and applied by brush then also it is not a suitable system.
You should be applying Exterior Grade Acrylic Primes. As this is US resistance and fungicides to prevent algae growth in external surfaces.
You dealer should have suggested you Exterior Acrylic Primer !! Be it Pidilite or Asian or ICI Dulux or the Best of lot that is Prime Bon by Dr Beck.
Hope I cleared you queries
Dear Sir,
ReplyDeleteIm very new to this chapter.
Im building a new house. Now we came to the stage of painting.
Now Im thinking whether to go for normal lime White wash or birla white cement white wash..?
and after that how to go about it.
Pleas help me out.
Hello Parthib.
ReplyDeletePlease avoid Lime wash. It is basically a reactive system which is not a good base for future when you may want to go for exterior acrylic painting system.
A lime wash base has to be completely cleaned before any other exterior painting system may be applied on it. So avoid it.
Go for White Cement Wash. A white cement was will be a stable base in case you may want to go for any Exterior Painting system later on.
Steps are
1) Sand the existing surface normallyby 80 No Emery Paper.
2) Repair any cracks or potholes.
3) Add SBR Chemical such as Nafufill BBR by MC-Bauchemie or Rheomix 141 by BASF etc to the repair mortar. Add 2Kg SBR to One bag of cement that is used for making the repair mortar.
4) Pre Wet the surface to be white washed.
5) Apply three coats of Cement White wash for proper finish
6) Wet Cure for at least 5 days. If its very hot cure two times a day.
7) You may also add SBR to white cement was cement wash. This helps in the final strength of the coating.
Hope above information helps
MYK Laticrete Wall Putty is better than Birla, JK & Asian in coverage, smoothness & hardness.
ReplyDeleteYou seem to be a sales man of the said company.
DeleteDo not promote a product here. This blog is all about painting systems pros and experiences. You are advised not to do this again.
Dear Sir, Im again in this blog. Im building a new house. Now we came to the stage of painting. Due to arising of efflorescence on internal walls from last November i stopped painting processes.This year on february i decided to paint one room(3 coats of putty,2 coats of wt primer,3 coats of royale shine).Within a one week colours bubble out,after colours peel off from those previous efflorescence spots.Now Im thinking whether to go for normal birla white cement white wash or putty..? and after that how to go about it.In the meantime i get knowledge about ap dampblock product,i apply it on one room, it looks like a gum layer on wall. DONT KNOW how it will work? please help.
ReplyDeleteHello Abhinabha
ReplyDeleteLike i Said. Any kind of white Cement based wall putty currently sold in the market will not protect you painting system, that has been proved again in your case. And I did advise that please do not go for premium finish like Royal Shine on a cement putty surface. The moisture coming from the other side will always bubble out the painting system.
Well I am guessing your house in on ground floor. If the problem is too much then I would suggest you the following system. I am not guaranteeing it but 95% I am sure it will solve your problem
This involves chiseling out the internal plaster till brick is exposed. Yes you will have to remove the plaster and redo the plaster using a crystalline additive in the plaster mortar mix.
Following are the Steps.
1) Chisel out the plaster till the brick wall is visible. Chisel out the plaster till the height of moisture ingress on the wall.
I would say whole wall if its the whole wall and if its from the ground up . Then do three feet if the moisture is till 2 feet.
2) The product that I know are of two brands One is MC-Special DM by MC-Bauchemie. With Dosage of 1Kg of Powder in 1 Bag of Cement. The Second Company I know is Kryton and the product is called KMA Used in the similar fashion.
3) What the additive does is , It crystallizes the minute capillaries which attract and absorb water in the plaster or concrete. MC-Special DM power generates micro crystals when there is moisture ingress in the surface of plaster or concrete. So basically this technology make the plaster itself moisture resistant. Hope you are able to understand this.
4) Apply the plaster with the Chemical Powder as describe above i.e. 1Kg Powder mixed to 1 50kg Bag of Cement (Any Brand) when you make the mortar for plaster. Rest all things are same.
5) DO not apply any cement putty. Apply normal paint putty made by whiting or chalk mitti method.
6) Apply Water Primer as normal
7) Apply Normal Acrylic Emulsion of First Grade.
8) I again insist do not go for premium finish paint on putty surfaces as it will be an uneven final finish. Only if you have POP you should go for premium finish Acrylic Paints like Velvet Touch or Royal Shine or any other.
Hope this helps.
MC-Special DM or KMA by Kryton Should be available with any good Construction Chemicals vendor in your city..
thanks for your kind feedback.
ReplyDeleteSir,
I am from Howrah,West Bengal, now what i know is that the problem of efflorescence on my new home's 1st and 2nd floor's internal wall is due to the bad bricks(made from salty soil of 24pargana) and salty sand of Rupnarion river.My local builder advised me to cure the plaster for 1 year to get rid of salts. Now what i see is that during this winter and summer arising of efflorescence spots rised to it's highest point. This monsoon no new efflorrscence spot srises but those previous spots looks damped.
Now asian paint launchs a new product named as Damp blok and company's representetive recommended me to use their damp block product as it creates a flim which stops water in flowing form and also it can withstand opposite pressure from plaster's sand-salt mixture. In one room i apply it on cementecious surface(self priming coat as1:1 ratio and then 2 coats as putty in 3:1 ratio). It looks like gum like layer and after the layer dried the damp is vanised. Now in monsoon sesson all walls feels cold and in putty wall it is much more, so i dont think it is damp. But it cost me Rs. 2180 for one room, it is too much. Is there a ny other option to protect the paint from efflorescence?
i applied Dr.fixit Lw+ in plaster mixture during plastering of outer wall,but the north facing wall of my house shows same efflorescence spots.Now how to paint those exterior walls? My local painter advised me not to apply white cement wash on exterior wall as it will cracks in future and it will eventually damage expensive paint on top coat.If he is right then how much extra primer can be required as rough plaster surface absorbs much more primer than smooth one.
ReplyDeleteHi Abinabha
ReplyDeleteThe Asian Paints system that you used is a good option for you. What I suggested you before is more technical and advanced system. Any system that has to prevent moisture ingress from the negative side has to work in the plaster surface itself. Damp Block does some of that.
As for Exterior , I suggest you first apply an exterior grade primer. This may be of Asian paints or any other of your choice. Then apply final three coats of first quality exterior emulsion. The dilution for these may be kept at 20% of the material.
As this is a new construction, cracks will occur in future and water may get in through these and again cause efflorescence. To properly seal these fine cracks I suggest you use any elastomeric or a flexible painting product.
Using of Cement Wash will have not much benefit if you are going in for Painting this season only. Go for a proper Exterior Grade Primer and any of the following brands
In Asian this is : Asian Ultima
ICI Dulux : Weathershield Max
Berger : Berger Weatherpoof Ultra
Dr Beck : Ex-Guard (My Favorite)
Hi Hemant,
ReplyDeleteI plan to go with Nerolac company guys for painting the house.
Its a new construction, the walls do not have much undulations but yes two or 3 walls are not to plumb and I was suggested cement putty over acrylic. I was never given POP as an option and just today from your blog I got to know that POP was also an option. However, I was misguided by someone that POP will wither our once it dries and now I have the correct picture from your blog. Thanks to you.
One question is, I was told one coat of primer and 2 coats of cement based putty for internal walls will be used, should I go for 2 rounds of primer?
I am more keen on window and door polish. I have used teak wood for frames and shutters and I am going for melamine spray polish. I was told 3 coats of sanding, 3 coats of hand polish and final coat of spray polish. Can you throw some light on this for me, what would the 3 rounds be and how to go about it?
Thanks in advance
Regarding Polish
DeleteFollowing are the facts. Melamine will decompose quickly when direct sunlight falls on it.
If your wood is facing the weather, then the best option is to use PU on those specific areas, and that too Water Based PU.
You are using Teak which has a very nice grainy surface. The Water Based PU will a natural open grain finish.
What is Three Coats of Sanding ??? Sanding is basically sandpapering the wooden surface.
I am guessing the contractor is telling three Coats of Sanding Sealer ! Which is not the perfect way to go about it. Sanding Sealer is chemically NC based which is different from the Melamine Base.
The polish done by this method will loose finish very soon even when in Interiors. Even the hardness will be lesser from what is expected from it.
Sanding Sealer is used in commercial and economically sensitive projects only.
The proper thing is to use Melamine Sealer it is available with all brands.
And why does he wants to do three coats of Hand Polish/French Polish ?? I guess he will use Lac Dana and Spirit for this Polish. This is also not required nor suggested.
This system is basically getting in 3 different chemical bases so the life of such polishing system is anyways not up-to the mark. And if it is done in exteriors the thing will go off in six months.
The Procedure for Melamine Polish is as follows.
1) Sanding of the wood from 60 to 150 no emery paper
2) Repairs of pot holes and blemishes in wood using paste made from Melamine Sealer and additives.
3) A french polish application by hand to set the desired shade of the polish on wood. ( Although this may also be avoided)
4) Application of Two Coats of Melamine Sealer ( A Melamine Sealer will come with Hardener and Base)
5) Sandpapering intermediately or as required by 220 and 320 paper
6) Application of two to three coats by spray of Melamine Top Coat( This also comes with Hardener)
7) Wet Sanding after suitable curing of the spray coats and as required to achieve a smooth blemish free finish.
________________________________________________________
For exteriors if you use Water based PU the procedure is as follows
1) Sanding as per above.
2) Repairs of Pot holes and blemishes by putty paste made using Water based PU and additives
3) Setting of Shade if required, by hand application or ragging method same as like hand polish using water but using Water Based PU only.
DO NOT USE FRENCH POLISH under WATER BASED PU TO SET SHADE OR FILL UP AS SEALER
4) 3 to 4 coats of water based PU by spray or by hand as required .
5) Curing time between coats take slightly more time as it is water based system. But no need of thinner or hardener or hand polish materials !!
6) Water based PU Systems might have Sealers also or also may have hardeners with some of brands, the procedure is more simple then using multiple products typically used with regular polishing system such as Melamine or Solvent Based PU.
Also of water based PU is not available in your area , go for regular Solvent based PU systems of your favorite brand.
The procedure is same as melamine polish but DO NOT USE FRENCH POLISH or LAC DANA POLISH UNDER PU Coats The System will fail in exteriors.
One small things , always get good quality thinner from the brands. Painter use Local Brands of thinner because or Some cash token or cheaper costs. Also shop keepers may some time push local thinners because of better margins. But using good quality branded thinners will always help you in achieving better finish in solvent based polishing systems.
Hope it helps.
Cheers
Hi Kavitha
ReplyDeleteGreetings. POP will not wither out on its own. It is only effected by moisture due to waterproofing failures.
If you are using Cement Putty then the process is as follows.
1) Sanding and Pre-wetting of Surface
2) Application of Cement Putty in at least three coats if you are talking interiors.
3) Wait for at-least 72 hours for the putty surface to become moisture free
4) Application of ONE Coat of Primer , I prefer water-based acrylic primer of first quality primer of your preferred brand.
5) Application of Paint in two to three coats as required. Darker shades will require more coats. You may even tint the primer if you are going for a darker shade in this. Will help in proper final finish of darker shade.
I once again advise you to not go for Premium Paints with Sheen on this surface. As surface will immediately show waves when light is switched on. These waves are not much visible in Sunlight or Day time.
Go for a normal Matt Finish Acrylic Emulsion Paint.
Hope the above clarifies your queries.
Cheers
Thanks a ton Hemant. Much appreciate your response. Yes, I wet the walls before cement putty. But the painters want to go with second coat of putty immediately after the first, is it ok?
ReplyDeleteI read from your blog thats its good to put one round of water after cement putty, but the painters say they never do it? So, is it still ok without wetting after cement putty?
Hi Kavitha
ReplyDeleteThere needs to be a gap of at-least 3 to 4 hours between two coats of Cement Putty.
The second round of curing is more relevant in outdoor surfaces in summer months because the putty dries very fast.
It is not needed in Indoor Conditions. Your painters are doing it inside so not needed. Again for interiors I recommend 3 coats of putty.
Hemant
Sure I gave a gap of day and a half before the second round of putty.
DeleteI have few more queries:
1. You have asked to give a gap of 72 hours after putty and before primer.So, I have asked them to do sanding after 72 hours and then go for primer. Is this ok?
2. In my estimate I do not have putty for external surfaces, I have one coat primer and 2 coats of paint, is it still ok?
3. I have a few breakages in the external walls which occurred when the scaffolding was dismantled. Now that I do not have external putty, one of my acquaintances advised me to go with external putty with guta ( I am not sure if I have spelt it correctly) and that would hold it hard instead of going of cement mortar for the broken areas, whats your take on this please?
Thanks for replying to my queries. I am following every word of your blog to ensure having a good outcome.
Hi Kavitha
Delete1) Yes you the sanding gap is OK
2) Yes it is in fact better then doing putty. The life of your paint will be more when done directly without putty.
3) To repair breakages in plaster use a bonding and repair chemical commonly knows as SBR. You will find it with any good paint and chemicals dealer. I prefer , BASF or MC-Bauchemie or SIKA or Fosroc Products. The product for this by BASF will be Rheomix 115 , for MC-Bauchemie will be Nafufill BB2 or BBR , ... So just ask for SBR chemical.
The usage method for repairing
1) First the area to be repaired has to be coated with a slurry prepared by mixing chemical 1 part+water 2 parts+some cement to make thick paint like slurry. Apply it by brush of the existing surface.
2) When this slurry coat is still wet , apply the cement+sand repair mortar made with the same ratio of chemical and water as above.
This is needed as the procedure of repair above make the bonding very good and stable.
Hope above is clear.
Cheers
hello sir
ReplyDeletemy house plaster is just finished I made it through chemical mixture technology
it doesn't need Sand (silica) . this plaster is very smother then conventional plaster
for interior and exterior . now we have decided to paint my house after 3 months so please what should i do for my house temporary bases for
please suggest me . 1 wall putty
2 paint or ...
please suggest me i have very short time to decide.
thank you
Hi
ReplyDeleteAre you taking about ready made plaster ?
If the existing plaster is very smooth then for Interiors I may suggest you acrylic putty. This comes with all major paint brands. Do take care about levels and waves.
If you go with acrylic putty you will not be needing any prime coat.
Go for smooth matt finish acrylic emulsion. As it will be first time you will also idea about any waves present in plaster finish.
cheers
On Exteriors go for direct primer and two to three coats of paint. No need of putty of cement putty.
ReplyDeleteHemant, does primer require curing with water after application?
ReplyDeleteNo Primer Does NOT require any curing.
ReplyDeleteDear sir, I want to use acrylic putty in the interior. My painter wants to do cement wash before applying putty. Is it a correct process? what is the disadvantage of acrylic putty? Is it better than cement putty? My painter wants to go with cement putty but the reason is not clear to me.please suggest a good acrylic putty & type of paint usable on it. what will be the time gap between putty & paint. is it good to use acrylic putty in the exterior? please suggest.- sushil, from kolkata.
ReplyDeleteHello Sajal aka Sushil
ReplyDelete1) There is no need for doing cement wash before Acrylic Putty. An application of Water Base Primer is recommended if you want must on the plastered surface. But it is not necessary
2) The only disadvantage of Acrylic Putty is that if it is directly applied on Cement Plastered surface it would not be able to suppress the waves present in the cement plaster. Apart from that it is a very good product as you would not need primer on top of Acrylic Putty. You may apply your acrylic emulsion or paint directly on it.
3) If you are not using POP then just go for the normal smooth matt finish acrylic emulsion paint. NOT THE PREMIUM ONES like Velvet / Royal etc
4) The Painter is used to doing more of Cement Putty / or greedy for the painter token inside that bag of Cement Putty ;-)
5) A good Acrylic Putty you may buy is of ICI Dulux / Asian / Jenson & Nicholson
6) The time gap between putty and paint may be of a day. Also depends on humidity conditions in this monsoon season
7) You should not use any kind of putty cement or acrylic if you want long life of your exterior painting system.
We've had problems with water from roof/ceiling causing the paint to peel inside. The problem substantially reduced when we painted the exterior with dr fixit & asian paints. But we still find that walls feel chill/damp in couple of spots on rainy days.
ReplyDeleteNow we are looking to paint the interiors. The painter has advised us to scrape the old paint, apply birla putty (to roughen things up ?/act as moisture barrier?) and then do painting (normal emulsion). Especially for damp walls.
Meanwhile the asian paints shopkeeper suggested applying 3 coats of dampblock (presumably after scraping), then primer and then paint
After reading your post, I am confused.
Your guidance much appreciated.
From your blog it looks like birla putty could be a plain cement putty with no moisture protection ? Will it help if we added few packets of dampblock powder to it ? Are they compatible ? Will the birla putty actually reduce life of interior paint ? Will it require a primer ?
Many thanks !
Hi Barath
ReplyDelete1) How will Birla Putty roughen things up? It makes the surface very smooth instead.
2) Putty itself will resist the effect of moisture as it is a cement putty but if covered by a Paint , the Paint will peal off.
3) If there is moisture in walls due to rains then it is basic that you take care of Waterproofing problem first. Painters or Paint vendors are not the perfect team to sort out a waterproofing issue. For a proper solution you have to get services of waterproofing contractors. As leakage may be due to cracks or due to parapet wall and concrete joints opening up or due to a porous or honey combed concrete. !
4) Cement Putty will not reduce the life of Interior paint, but it also does not prevent the paint from peeling off if there is moisture in the walls. The logic is once the moisture enters the surface the Cement Putty allows the water to evaporate but when coated with Paint/Emulsion the moisture debonds the paint or tears through the paint film. Hope you understood this.
5) Get your site visited by a waterproofing contractor and let me know what they suggest. I will be able to give you specifics then. As waterproofing problems occur due to many reasons and each problem has to be taken care specifically.
6) When using Birla Putty there is no need of primer.
7) No I don't think it is going to completely prevent moisture problem if you add Damp-block powder to Birla Putty. Powders like this is based on active crystallization technology and work properly only when added to a plaster (cement+sand mortar) layer.
8)For long term results water has to be stopped from entering the structure itself.
Hope above helps.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteNeed your help on finalizing paint on Exterior walls. Wall putty has already been done. Now the painters and vendors are suggesting below options:
Option 1: Dr. Fixit Primeseal + Dr. Fixit Raincoat
Option 2: Exterior Wall primer + Apex Ultima
Please suggest what is BEST even if its a different (or new) option.
Thanks & Regards,
VIshal
Hi Vishal,
ReplyDeleteWell Putty has been already applied. So Option 2 is totally useless.
Option 1 is still ok
The product that can perform best in this scenario even better then option 1 is something called Ex-Guard by a Company called Dr Beck. This is a technology manufacturing company and is an expert in developing protection coatings for structures.
So option 3 may be : Primer Coat comes by the name of Primebond (The damn thing even anchors firmly a glass surface !)
And the coating may be done by Beck Bond Ex-Guard.
This may be available with any of the good Construction Chemicals vendor in your city. This product goes majorly for project where re-coating is not desired for long periods.
Hope it helps
Cheers
1. No. after chiseling the plaster the dampness is not in the bricks in Summer season at a height. We still noticed some dampness around 1 feet when we removed old mosaic tiles, but I don't remember having seen damp bricks above couple of feet height during summer.
Delete2. On the house exterior facing inner side of the walls (on 4 sides) the dampness rises around 5 to 6 feet internally during rainy seasons only. Also the dampness is seen around Window parapet. The reason is the parapet wall containing iron has rusted & swollen thus opening cracks around the wall which cannot be repaired without breaking parapet & re-constructing it since re-plastering externally would not work for swollen Iron.
3. No; Dampness is not on all internal walls, but certainly on most external walls that do not have tiles applied.The dampness in the internal walls of the Bungalow is seen in patches at some places. The reason is because 15 years ago, to overcome this problem, we removed the 25 year old geru/Lime plaster (only upto cement level not brick level) that was present at that time and re-plastered and smoothened the rough walls with portland cement. In the process of doing so, wherever contractors overlooked removing some lime/Geru in patches is the place where we see circular dampness during rainy season only. I guess that absorbs humidity / dampness and stays there during rainy season.
4. Wherever Birla putty or POP or Lambi that comes in contact with such dampness, it disintegrates making the house so shabby that after every rainy season we have to start thinking of new color and fear of the next rainy season again.
5. Yes it is randomly occurring. Usually the dampness problem stays for 3 months only, but it plays havoc with the color. We have secured the terrace by putting a shed so the leakage is kept to minimum from top.
6) Yes it is a very high rainfall area. Lots of underground water at 6-7 feet in summer and during rains you should have guessed right that couple of feet below ground level is the water table level.
FYI, at Different instances, Painters have applied only Birla putty, in some instances they have mixed 1 parts POP and 1 part Birla Putty. and sometimes Lambi/POP is applied on it whenever it has been disintegrated in patches or full wall or partially, So now some layers are of Lambi and some layers are of POP/ Birla Putty and that is the reason, I wanted to remove all of it - go to the smoothened cement wall which has not disintegrated and use the correct method after getting your advise.
Dampness is the integral part of our region and is not specific to only our house, especially on the ground floor, and we have to find solution by taking it for granted that whatever we do dampness will stay, as we cannot eliminate 100% of it.
That was another reason we wanted to seek your advise if levelplast will also disintegrate like Birla wall putty when it comes in contact with Dampness? And what would be the best possible course of action. Thanks for your help in advance. I plan to start work tomorrow and need your advise urgently.
Thanks/AJAY
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI had some moisture leakage in the walls and the paint had come out. So I got the walls replastered with water proofing solution mixed with cement. Now I am planning to get the walls painted. The new cement plaster patches are only at the bottom 2 feets from floor(on the walls surrounding the bathroom). The above wall area has POP plaster with a paint coating. The painter says he will apply JK Putty only on the plastered area and then repaint the entire wall with Asian paint tractor emulsion for good finish.
1. Is it ok if a wall has POP as base in top part and putty in the lower part before painting? Or should I insist on applying POP only.
2. Also is tractor emulsion fine or should I go for premium emulsion for better finish?
3. Should I go for Nerolac or Dulux or any other company's paint to get better quality paint at economic costs?
4. I stay in Rajasthan so painter suggests to put ACE weathercoat(of asian paints) over double coat of putty on the exterior. The surface has no cracks or any major unevenness. Is it fine or should I ask him to put any other quality paint?
Thanks in advance,
Mayur.
Hi Mayur
ReplyDelete1) First of all if the re-plastering has been recent then you should wait for two weeks to see any occurrence of moisture problem again. I am not sure that the treatment of waterproofing that you have done. If you have waited that long and no problem is there then it is good and you may go ahead with the work.
2) How will Pop and Wall Putty even out. The whole two feet area will look a level different from the POP surface. As the POP is like up to an Inch thick sometime while the Wall Putty is hardly 2mm to 3mm thick ?
3) I there is re-occurrence of moisture problem them the paint will peel off, it wont matter if it is wall putty or POP. As the moisture will push through the paint film.
4) At this stage I suggest go for Tractor Emulsion only.
5) Nerolac / Dulus / Asian / Berger all are standard companies with similar products.
6) I do not suggest Cement Putty if you are looking for log life of Exterior Painting System. I suggest you save on cost of Putty and go for Premium Exterior Paint Such as Asian Apex Ultra or Weathershield Max by Dulux. Avoid Cement Putty.
Hope it helps
Hemant
Hi, i have my exterior wall plastered with cement and sand mixed with sika plastocrete additive. now kindly tell me can i apply weathershield max direct on the wall or do i have to do something else. I want cost effective solution, but water proofing is a must
ReplyDeleteHi There
DeleteYes you may get a quality exterior painting system with weatherproofing properties even if you don't apply a primer. I would suggest following
1) Light Sanding of the Plastered wall and normal base preperation procedures
2) Apply a self priming coat of Weathershiled Max i.e. dilute the paint material as 1:1 with water it means 1 Part Paint to 1 Part Water and apply by brush.
3) After 4 to 5 hours apply normal dilution of paint material i.e. Water added as 20% to 25% to the paint material by brush or roller
3) In Total you may apply 2 or 3 coats of paint after applying 1 coat of selfpriming coat.
Hope It is clear.
Hello sir,
ReplyDeleteWe have bought an old house, which has flaking of paint in one of the rooms and bathroom, we are planning to paint the interior and exterior both. An engineer we have consulted is suggesting to apply birla putty for interior and then also do the water proofing for the roof. Having no knowledge regarding these, we are requesting your advice for the following:
1. How is the best way to waterproof the roof? What does it mean and please explain the procedures if possible.
2. Which is best way to paint interior to avoid such flaking? POP or Birla Putty and paint? At present, the walls are plastered and direct painted only.
Also the engineer we have consulted says the house wiring can be concealed if we go with birla putty, how is that possible? Currently, the wiring is on the wall and not concealed.
3. For exterior paint, is direct paint is the best way? We kind of conclude this reading your blog.
Many thanks.
Ranjeet
Hi Ranjeet
ReplyDeleteGreetings.
1) If the roof is made of concrete then it is easier to waterproof it. If its made of stone slabs or lime then its more complicated. I will explain the process taking it as a concrete terrace.
For Concrete roof a basic principal is that waterproofing system be of flexible or elastomeric quality as due tropical climate of our country the structure expands and contracts leading to generation of cracks in any terrace or rcc construction.
So The method shall be
A) Chipping loose surface and widening of cracks using a cutter. DO NOT USE HAMMERING method to chip of old surface. Only gentle chipping
B) Cleaning and washing of existing surface by water to remove any dust and loose particles
c) Repair of cracks and pothole using cement mortar mixed with "SBR" as 1:1 and cement sand, i.e. 1 part water + 1 part SBR liquid + cement to make slurry and silica to make mortar for repair. Apply the mix of cement + sbr+ water to the surface to be repaired and when still wet mix silica in the mix to make repair mortar. and conduct repairs of the whole are as needed.
d) Following options for waterproofing suitable are for a terrace and the basic things to remember for these systems.
Please Note : Do not add water and apply two coats or Three coats with an interval of 4 hours. Apply over a damp surface not flowing with water.
1) EL 551 (Kit with 15Kg powder + 5 kg Liquid) Coverage of 60 to 75 Sq.ft for Two Coats of the kit. Product by BASF
cost around 2200 per kit
2) Zentrifix Elastic System ( 1 Part Liquid + 2 Parts Powder, with coverage of 15 to 20 Sq.Ft per Kg, product by MC-Bauchemie
Cost around rs 350 Per Kg
3) WPC-30 with Primex 250 , (Apply primex 250 as first coat and when its still tacky apply WPC-30 a thick rubbery liquid by brush in two coats. Coverage 10-15 Sq.ft for two coats per kg
cost around Rs 350 Per Kg.
There may be other systems in local brands like Dr Fixit. Ensure that they are elastomeric and don't buy any product that needs cement to be added to it. The cement addition requirement is for chemical suitable for areas other the terraces such as sunken portions . water tanks , basement walls etc.
2 Part :
Please do not use Birla Putty , and I am sorry to say your architect/designer have not much idea about putty being able to hide wiring marks. You should go for POP only for a good finish. Little chipping or a method know has punning shall be done which will make POP installation easier on the existing plain surface.
To conceal wiring you have to use a cutter to cut out the wiring lines within the walls no other option.
Yes Direct Paint is always the best way. Use SBR chemical above as explained to make repairs to cracks and renovating the plaster.
I suggest got for ICI > weather shield MAX or Asian Apex Ultima or Berger Elastomeric Paint or Exguard by Dr Beck. The last one is the most expensive one in the region of 7500 per 20 kg drum the others are in the region of Rs 5000 per drum . Coverage is around 1200 Sq.ft per drum for two coats.
I hope the above helps. Have to rush apologies for grammatical errors if any not proof checking this ...
sir isnt pop more water pron than putty?? assuming my plastering on brick wall has no chemical additives. in this case isnt putyy more water resistant than POP. POP punning is a process not much familiar in the south ( tamil nadu kerala). they say the application technique of POP punning is very different. please clarify.
DeleteHi Preston,
DeleteI agree that POP is more water sensitive then Putty , my point is that in case of moisture effect in the surface, the Paint will always peel of , no matter you are using Cement Putty or POP as a base.
hello sir
ReplyDeletei want to paint my interior wall.i want 1st coat on wall p.o.p and 2nd coat wall putty. This think write or wrong plz suggest me.
Hi Sudhesh
ReplyDelete1) The First surface on cement plaster shall be of POP to achieve a levelled surface. It is not called a coat it is a POP surface to reduce the undulations of plastered surface.
2) The second layer for even more final levelling will be your Putty surface. This will not be Cement Putty but Acrylic Ready to use Putty or traditional putty made using whiting and enamel paint. Acrylic Putty can be of Asian / ICI / Berger / J&N / etc , the traditional putty shall be made by using paste of first quality whitnig powder and first quality enamel paint. You painter would know this. Acrylic Putty is a better option in terms of better finishing and hardness along with no need of primer on Acrylic Putty. You can directly apply paint on your walls if you are using acrylic putty. While with traditional putty you need to use the primer coat.
Hope things are clear for you
Dear sir, your blog is being informative each and every step as we read it. i have a building wall facade made of concrete finish, a design by our architect to have slits all over the facade. but the issue now is there are so many hneycombs and " blow holes" is the term architect used over the concrete walls. and to make things worst, there are panel marks, meaning the panels were not alighned while concreting done. hence after shutterin/panel removed you can see some in and some panel casted walls a bit out( half an inch) now they suggest to do some kind of "level plaster". how thick can a level putyy plaster be applied is there a limit to the thickness. thhank you for your help.
ReplyDeleteHi Preston
ReplyDeleteApologies for delay was out of town for a project, just back.
Good to see that the Raw Concrete Finish was attempted by your Architect , What I can make out from your description is that Concrete Facade Finish is having these problems due to following factors
1) Such kind of Concrete compulsorily require good plasticizers to be admixed in the concrete. Did you use Quality Plasticizers from Brands like BASF or MC-Bauchemie or Forsroc to make you concrete more plastic and reduce the amount of water in the mix ??? These chemical additives help reduce the pot holes and honey combing and also make the concrete more homogenized and dense when placed. Also the the concrete mix responds better to the vibrations.
2) Use of Shuttering Agents is required which help in easy removal of shuttering that leads to better final finish of concrete. This coating is done just before the concrete is poured in the shuttering.
You should find about leveling plasters in your area, that can be used for leveling things out. Putty is not the solution to this. As putty can maximum go for 2mm , your level plaster can cover upto and Inch of undulations.
Or you can create your own level plaster by admixing sand , cement , water with SBR chemical. That acts as a bonding agent and will give a long lasting quality to the leveling application done in this manner .
Dear Sir,
ReplyDeleteMy house plaster is completed, Build up area:105 Sq. Mtr. Now i would like to go for wall putty. My dealer suggest for 20 bags x 40kgs of local Wall Putty for first Coat interior and 6 bags x 20 kgs of Asian Wall Putty for second coat, Asian Primer for Interior 20 ltrs and 20 ltrs for Exterior. Please suggest whether i should go ahead with dealer suggestions.
Regards,
Suraj
Dear Sir,
ReplyDeleteMy house plaster completed, now i would like to do Wall putty work. My dealer suggested the following:
For Fist Coat 20 bags x 25 kg : Local brand wall putty paste
for Second coat 6 bags x 40 kg : Asian Wall putty powder
Exterior wall: Asian Primer 40 kg
Please suggest the recommendations are ok or not.
Regards,
Suraj
Hello Suraj
DeleteI have already mentioned couple of times previously about the concept of wall putty being not the best surface for exterior paints because of reduced life of paint and also the use in the Interiors as an ineffectively expensive medium for getting a good leveled finish.
Anyways my input is as following.
1) If it is interior you are talking then Putting a second coat of Asian Wall putty on top of first coat of local putty does not make sense at all !! if you are not going for POP in Interiors surface then using local wall putty in two coats will give you the same finish. As I understand the local wall putty shall be prepared by the painter using chalk mitti/whiting with first quality white enamel and some clear varnish of any good brand such as Asian or berger. No use of going in for second coat of Asian wall putty .
On exterior wall you may go in for Asian Exterior Acrylic Primer or instead also use the Apex or what Paint you are going for as a self primer . It means that instead of using a separate primer you may just apply a thin coat as first coat. That mean 1 part paint and 1 part water diluted to form a self primer coat from the pain itself.
Hope your doubts are clear.
Sir,
ReplyDeleteI'm Manas from Kolkata. I've finished constructing my new house 3 months ago and applied wall putty inside. My painter has suggested applying white cement on exterior wall. it is logical ? kindly advice the best choice accordingly.
Hello Palit
DeleteSorry for delay was busy with projects.
If you are applying White Cement Wash on the exterior wall its Ok. Remember to prewet the walls before application and cure for atleast three days after applications
Regards
sir this is nithi anand from tamilnad
ReplyDeletei hve burma teak for windows and doors .i like to hve matt finish polish.(the grains in the wood should be highlighted).
i like to do melamine for interiors and pu for exteriors.
what are the procedure to do this by a painter and what all materials i hve to buy for the painter.
expecting early reply
Hell Nithi, Sorry for delay in reply.
DeleteIf you want to have natural wood grain finish then I suggest to forget solvent based Melamine or PU. Go for Waterborn PU Systems available with Berger or Asian Paints.
It will give you a smooth finish like natural wood.
Procedure is
1) Sand the Wood by 60 no ....80 no .... 100 no ..120 no ,,,, 150 no and if possible by 220 no paper. Try to get Red Sanding Paper of Norton or 3M.2
2) Apply first coat of Waterbased PU and also prepare repair putty/paster using the same material.
3) Apply 2 to 3 coats by Spray or Ragging and do intermediate sanding by 220 no paper and 320 no paper.
This is fairly simple process as no sealer, or thinner or hardener or typical materials needed for solvent base products are require.
Best of all the best natural finish of wood , called Open Grain Finish and the best life for Ourdoor Installed wood fixtures.
Regards
dear sir
ReplyDeletemy house is very old and not painted for many years
we have cleaned and washed he exterior surface and applied a coat of wall putty
now suggest me what to apply on the boundary walls and outer 0f the house so that
the wall stay fresh for years as i am living in kolkata we have good rain falls which makes walls black
Hello Dharm
DeleteAs you have already applied Cement based wall putty, I would suggest following.
1) Sand the existing surface with 80 no Sandpaper to slightly roughen the smooth putty base so that the paint can acnhor little better, (The best would have been plain plaster as explained in my blog)
2) Select Normal First quality of Exterior Grade Acrylic Paint Such as Apex ( NOT Ultima) , Weathershield ( NOT MAX) , or similar grade of Paints. As more higher grade paints will not perfrom on the Putty Surface as expected.
3) Also you can ask your Paint Vendor for a Anti Fungal Primer Coating prior to application of Paint, It is available with any good paint dealer
My interior walls were plastered one years back.
ReplyDeleteNow I am about to apply the first painting solution to interior walls
so where to begin..
Kindly note I have applied nothing to the walls not even lime ash.
They are just cement sand mortar plastered a year ago.
Kindly suggest a interesting and economic path to begin.
By the way I am a fan of POP. But will it be costly
Hi Saumyajit
DeleteNothing will go better then POP... This will be one time investment, as only Paint will need to be redone , and after using POP you would get great finish even in normal grade acrylic paints.
Steps for POP
1) If Plaster is smooth, Chisleing it to create anchoring for POP
2) Application of POP with good level quality
3) Application of Levelling Putty using Whiting or Readymade Putty
4) Application of Primer In case of Whiting Putty and No need to Primer in Case or Readymade Acrylic Putty
5) Applicatin of final 2 to 3 coats of paint of any first quality Acrylic Emusion
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI am doing interior repainting to my walls; The walls was earlier painted with Supercem. Now when the wall Putty was done with primer+2 coat putty+ Primer and during the first coat, I understood that there is some problem and when peeled, the whole layer came out and showed me the white cement coat applied before super chem. Now I want to go away with Putty and Okay with undulations also. But the walls have to be taken care.
1. The contractors says we will sand + Primer + two coats of Paint( I had royal available as i had already bought for the putty surface);
2. One of my friends painter say, Sand + white cement coat + Primer + 2 coats of paint. So which process is right? If Second, One of the website advises to cure the white cement for three days, Is that necessary..
How do to take care of the interior walls, Please advise
Hi Senthil
DeleteYes Any Cement finish need curing after application and always have to be aplied to a prewet moist surface remmeber that , else the system will not perform as expected.
I suggest the following , if you not going for POP
Thorughly Sand the Surface by using 60 No Cloth Paper, scrape out all exsiting cement based old finish,
Wash it thoroughly , conduct repairs of cracks and Potholes by using materials like like Crackfill, Sunfill as , these are crack repairing products for interiors and come in powder form , just add water to make a paster and conduct repairs,
Allow it to dry for two to three days,
Apply First Coat of Acrylic First Qality Primer ,
Apply readymade Acrylic Putty on the first coat of Primer, and finish it to a smooth level ,
Apply two or three coats the of the paint , any normal grade first quality Acrylic Emulsion. Would not suggest to use Royal on this or Velvet , as the existing undulations are still there in the surface due to missing POP surfacing.
So buy a Paint that cost around Rs 275 or Rs 300 Per Liter not the expnsive ones, wont even look good. Waste of Money
Sir,
ReplyDeleteMy new house construction is going on and outer plastering has finished. Plastering finish is smooth . My contractor insists to apply "birla wall care putty"to have a nice exteriro finish. Hous is around 2800 square feet and applying wall care putty expense is very high. I have gone thru many of your suggestions but like to know what are the options available other than putty.
Some are saying only white cement is required since plastering is smooth.I am bit confused. What should I do for interior also?
Looking for an answer from your side.
Regards
Pradeep
Sir,
ReplyDeleteMy last post was so short. My house construction is going on and plastering is finished. Plastering is done with msand(manufacured sand) and cement.Surface has a smooth finish.I have seen your answers regarding putty. But i have used msand instead of normal sand for plastering. Contractor wants to go for putty on exterior and interior.Some are saying only white cement is required.Looking for your expert opinion and procedures .House is 2800 square feet and cost for applying putty is on the higher side.From your blog i Understnad that its hype and not mandatory.Contractor told me that the amount of paint will reduce if we apply putty.So my questions are
1- Shall I go for putty?
2- if i go for white cement what should be the procedure?
3- After applying white cement when should i paint ?
4- What kind of piants are advised for interior and exterior?
An early reply shall highly be appreciated.
Regards
Pradeep
Hi Pradeep,
Delete1) Dont Need to go for Putty on Exterior or Interior Walls, Go for Application of 1 Coat of Exterior Acrylic Primer, and Two to Three Coats of Exterior Acrylic Paint with your preferred brand.
2) For White "Cement Wash" > First Prewet the exsiting surface, prepare the cement wash by adding water and apply when the wall is still moist , After drying do atleast 3 days of wet curing for the cement wash
3) For Exterior Grade , I would Suggest go for Dulux Weathershield , Asian Apex and similar grades in other brands like Berger or Nerolac
4) For Interiors, go for POP > The levelling Putty either readymade acrylic or Normal Whiting (Chalk mitti grade) , apply One Coat of Primer if going for Whiting grade putty , no need of Primer if you going for Acrylic Putty , > then apply two to three coats of your preffered paint.
5) For interriors go for Acrylic Emusions of First quality of any brand . Should be costing arpound 275 a liter.
hello
ReplyDeletei m new to your blog. thank you for all the much needed informations.
Actually my first house is under construction which will be going for paint stage next month probably. flooring and fixings are undergoing.
The layers of plaster has been finished on exterior and interior walls, is it necessary to use waterproofing additive(Dr. Fixit products) on interior walls if POP is to be used later? and is it a must to use waterproofing additive on exterior walls if white cement white wash to be used? and i also want to know which one is better for external finishing white wash cement or white cement putty as i have known from ur blog that putty decreases the life expectancy of color.
what is the best option to use for external walls?
what does Dr. Fixit Primeseal + Dr. Fixit Raincoat do, are they alternative for acrylic putty?
i m planning to use POP for internal walls, what type of color will be best? like u ve suggested to use Acrylic Emulsion for white putty coated walls.
i am looking forward for your reply soon.
please clear my confusions.
Hi Shoully
DeleteThere is no need of Using Dr Fixit Plaster Admixture / Additive for Interior Walls.
It is always good to use a waterproofing additive in the Outdooor Plaster. A quality product like Putz Dichtament or Pidilite or any other would also improve the quality of plaster due to improved plasticity apart from providing watertight properties.
Cement Wash is only a finishing coat. Not related to waterproofing properties of the wall.
I would suggest , 1 Coat of White Cement Wash if Its a must for you and then directly apply two to three coats of Exterior Grade acrylic paint, Asian / Berger / Dulux etc , all are similar with the technolgies used to produce the paints
Dr Fixit Primseal and Raincoat are marketed as Waterproofing Coating, they are ok, But suggest to use directly on Plaster surface, if you are going for this no need for white cement wash also.
Ifyou are using POP then nothing like it for the Internal Walls, if going for POP then you may go in for premium acrylic emulsions like Velvet Touch or Asian Shine or Berger . They will look good on a POP Surface.
DeleteSo the system suggested for Interiors is
Plaster > Levelling Putty by Acrylic Putty or Whiting Putty > A coat of Primer > 2 to 3 coats of Paint (Final Coat by Roller )
Sorry missed POP in the above ..
DeletePlaster > POP >>Levelling Putty by Acrylic Putty or Whiting Putty > A coat of Primer > 2 to 3 coats of Paint (Final Coat by Roller )
Hi ,My new house cement plastering just finished & am exploring different paint type for interior walls.Has a conversation with Asian paints & they telling to go for first primer one coat then Acrylic putty 2 coat then final paint 2 coat.Before applying first coat primer the buffer time as per them is 45 days.I am in a hurry to complete at least putty so can go for wall tile,floor tile,gypsum ceiling & lighting etc.
ReplyDeleteKindly suggest any other alternative .By the way m inclined to go for POP but my paint contractor is bit negative .M staying in a high humid & hot climate with heavy rain fall & moderate cold for two to three months (Near to kolkatta)
Hi Pramu,
ReplyDeleteIf you walls have no moisture issue , i.e. no seepage in walls , then going for POP will be the best option.
If your Plastering in smooth finish is already done then POP will be not possible to apply as POP would need a rough or broom finish to anchor.
So POP application should have been planned before. No go ahead with Primer and Acrylic Putty application.
You can start with Paint Process after 2 or 3 weeks. No need to wait for 45 days,
And remember if you going with Primer and Acrylic Putty base only then go for the normal acrylic emulsion paint of your preferred brand no need of going in for Royal Shine or anything like that.
H
Hi,
ReplyDeleteMy new building brick wall plastering has been completed. Contractor has started painting with Birla white cement. What are the steps for new building painting? Is it OK to use Birla white cement? When should we use wall putty for making smooth surface? Is the wall putty required? Is it mandatory to paint immediately after applying wall putty?
Regards
Sanjay
Hi Sanjay
DeleteIt is Ok to use White Cement Bursh Coat, provided it is done with a moisture cure before and after the application of Cement Brush Coat. But it is really not required.
If you are going in for exterior paint , then go in for Exterior Acrylic Primer and then two to three coats of Exterior Acrylic Paint of any good quality like Weathershield Max, Apex Ultima , or Beck Exguard or smiliar
Since you have gone for a normal plastered surface , the life of the paint will be long and performance will come as expected.
Wall Putty is really not required for exteriors if you are looking for long life of the paint.
If you are going in for Cement based wall putty, use normal exterior paint , no need of primer and apply thick coats , and also remember to sand it to open up the smooth layer so that paint can anchor better
If cement putty is left unpainted for lomng life it self seals and develops hairline cracks , which is really not good for long life of any paint coating coming on top of it.
H
Hi Hemant,
ReplyDeleteThanks to provide so much valuable information. Your reply on each post is really appreciable.
Kindly suggest me on the correct procedure to paint interior and exterior wall.
Wall plaster work is just completed and surface is very rough.
1. How many days to wait before applying any cement paint or putty after plaster ?
2. How much curing is required at both side wall during application of cement/putty ? curing is already done during plaster.
3. Contractor has advised to apply first coat of Birla white cement at both side of wall and then go for desired paint, is it correct process.
4. What is the main difference between White cement and White putty.
Kindly advise the less expensive solution which also provide good result.
Hello Sachin
ReplyDeleteExterior Paint ...
> Cure the surface atleast for 10 to 12 days,
> You may apply cement wash or cement based putty withing 3 or 4 days also as any cement based product will have no problem with water curing
> Even if curing is done for the plaster , before applying cement wash it has to be wetted and also after application it has to be cured for 3 or 4 days
> If applying cement putty , apply in a moist surface and curing is needed in the simmer months as there is high ambient heat , so cure for one or two days , it will always help
> No curing is need for interiors, but always remember to apply cement putty on on a moist surface
> You may go in for a cement wash before application of exterior paint, on the plastered surface, just remember to cure it for 3 - 4 days before you apply paint. I would suggest normal Exterior Paint like Apex / Weathershield/ etc, yeah contractor is ok with this
> White Cement Based putty has white cement as main ingredient and some fillers including lime to give its paste like consistency. But the main base is white cement only. Technically it is not a great product where life of painting system is of importance.
> For interiors , I would suggest , Plaster > POP > Primer > Whiting Putty > Primer > 2 to 3 coats of Paint.
If you want to not spend on POP then , Plaster> Waterbased Primer > Whiting Putty > Water Based Primer > 2 to 3 coats of Paint (Distemper or Economy Acrylic Paint)
H
Hi, I have 2 queries.
ReplyDeleteFor interiors is it ok to do 2 coats ok jk wall putty, emery papaer and primer. After this leave it for 3-4 months till monsoon ends and then go for paint.
For exteriors as 1 coat putty is done so leave another coat of puutty amd then directly got for Apex Ultima now. Are these processes fine.
Hi
ReplyDelete1) There is no advantage of Waiting for 3-4 months, and remember not to go for premium emlusion paint. Go for a regualr emulsion so that undulations are not enhanced.
2) Ya , you can go ahead with Apex Ultima Directly.
Hope it helps
Cheers
Hi,
ReplyDeleteMy home is in painting stage.
Exterior wall is applied with Birla white and not on a pre-wet wall but post that the curing is done. So what paint I should use now? If the process is not correct what should I do to correct it.
Please advice me.
Regards
Ganesh
Hi Ganesh
ReplyDelete1) Sandpaper the Putty Surface with 80 No Emery Paper
2) Apply First coat of Paint as self primer by diluting it with water as 1:1
3) Apply Second and Third Coat of Paint diluted max 30% by water.
Do not Use Apex Ultima or Weathershiled Max or similar. Use Normal Apex and Weathershield quality or similar.
Hope it helps
Cheers
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI recently did furniture\electric work in my new flat and that damaged some of the walls. I want to paint now so that the walls looks clean. The designer is suggesting to go with lusture paint which costing very high(25 rs\sft).
I contacted another contractor who suggested to go for oil bould acrylic(8 rs\sft).
My question is what'll be the right option. Also, If I got for oil bould acrylic, does it require removing the existing distemper paint provided by the builds and also does it need putty(or primer) applied before the paint.
My requirements
1. I want to hide the damages done to walls because of the interior work
2. Need a low cost solution since lusture is not fitting in my budget
Thanks in advance
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI recently did furniture\electric work in my new flat and that damaged some of the walls. I want to paint now so that the walls looks clean. The designer is suggesting to go with lusture paint which costing very high(25 rs\sft).
I contacted another contractor who suggested to go for oil bould acrylic(8 rs\sft).
My question is what'll be the right option. Also, If I got for oil bould acrylic, does it require removing the existing distemper paint provided by the builds and also does it need putty(or primer) applied before the paint.
My requirements
1. I want to hide the damages done to walls because of the interior work
2. Need a low cost solution since lusture is not fitting in my budget
Thanks in advance
Hello Prakash
ReplyDeleteI would not suggest Distemper and Luster anyways is not a very good option as everything is oil based in it.
I would Suggest following
1) Properly Sand the existing surface using 80 no emery paper
2) Repair the surafce as required using Readymade Acrylic Putty over POP
3) Apply a coat of Waterbased Acrylic Primer,
4) Apply two to three coats of Acrylic Emuslion of First Quality.
No need to go in for Velvet Touch or Royale or Luster
You will get a smooth matt comfortavle finish with the above system.
Should cost you at max 12 to 14 rs per sq.ft.
For Material Costing Idea A Liter of Plastic Paint would cover 75 to 80 Sq.Ft for three coats
A kg of Oil Bound Distemper or any distemper would cover 40 to 45 for three coats.
Primer Shall cover around 120 to 150 Sq.ft for 1 Liter
Hope it Helps
Cheers
Hello,
ReplyDeleteThanks a lot for very quick response and suggestions. Here's what the painting contracotr is offering,
1 Lustre ( Asian/ norolack) 22.00 rs.per sqft
2 Plastic paint premium (Asian paint) 16.00rs. per sqft
3 Plastic paint ( waterproof) 18.00 per sqft
4 Oil bound syn. (Asian paint) 12.00rs. per sqft
5 Oil bound acrylic 14.50 per sqft
6 Satin finish 20.00 rs. Per sqft
7 Oil paint (Asian paint) 14.00rs.per sqft
8 Velvet touch/royal touch 24.00 per sift
I'm struggling a little to understand what all these options means. I have some more questions,
1. In your reply, by "Acrylic Emulsion" you mean "Oil bound acrylic"(no.5 in the list above) ?
2. Is "Apcolite Emulsion from Asian Paint" an "Acrylic Emulsion" ? If not, can you please give a name of product which is "Acrylic Emulsion".
Hi,
ReplyDeleteReally a selfless service that you provide. Many Thanks!
I have a 40 years Old house on ground floor near the creek that has the interior walls done 15 yrs ago with smoothed portland cement plaster (applied dry cement and Patra during plaster). We used plastic paint on it directly with no complaints.
7 years ago to remove undulations, we applied Birla white putty and lambi, and our problems began as it absorbs ground water due to capillary action due to high relative humidity, hairline crack in smoothened cement, parapet water seepage etc.. Painters now add Lambi POP/ CBirla putty mix every couple of years wherein lambi absorbs water, cement putty also starts disintegrating and we consistently see patches peeling just 6-9 months after each color.
I know you will say, exterior needs all round water proofing solution that we cannot address now. So the solution for few rooms we applied tiles completely. But cannot do that for living dining and few other rooms.
We tried removing interior cement plaster till the brick on one small room which was a heck of a job as the tiles on the other side gets damaged so that is not an option as well, and also the cement walls below Lambi Putty are still very smooth and good. We tried removing the cement putty / Lambi manually with Patra with both dry and wetting options on few more walls. Painters do not do that and bigaris just run away after few days of work. So now planning to get Mortar grinder to remove putty and lambi on remaining walls. Once that is done we have two options for a long term solution of 3 -4 years atleast:
1) Apply Birla white LevelPlast (Or any better options that you suggest) to remove undulations on the moist wall and then add final coat of Levelplast+ SBR(or any other additives as you suggest) + Cement offwhite / light green color Pigment( any suggestions on pigment?).
2) If Birla Levelplast does not hold well in moisture or cannot adhere to a smooth surface of portland cement, then next option is to apply 2 coats of Birla white cement with SBR ; Sanding and final coat with cement color pigment in Birla white & SBR and just overlook the wavy undulations currently present.
Which of these is a better option? and do i need any of additional steps, Any additives for better adhesion and any specific interior cement pigments that should be used. OR is there a third option. We need to have the walls washable and so using directly cement pigments unless there is any other option. AND Also want to know do's and don'ts while applying cement pigments in the interior.
Thanks for all your help in advance.
Regards,
AJAY
Hi Ajay,
ReplyDeleteThe problems seems to be due to rising dampness.
Please clarify following points.
1) After chiseling the plaster can you see the dampness in the bricks also ?
2) How high the Dampness is rising through the walls, like 5 ft or 7 feet or full 10 feet height.
3) Is it on all walls of the house ?
4) Is it only on specific area which may have got Birla Putty done ?
5) Is it occuring randomly ?
FYI , POP or Lambi do not mix with Birl Putty there are incompatible materials. This is a wrong method anyways.
Also please let me know what is your location is it a High rainfall area or high water level area due to the creek.
Hemant
1. No. after chiseling the plaster the dampness is not in the bricks in Summer season at a height. We still noticed some dampness around 1 feet when we removed old mosaic tiles, but I don't remember having seen damp bricks above couple of feet height during summer.
Delete2. On the house exterior facing inner side of the walls (on 4 sides) the dampness rises around 5 to 6 feet internally during rainy seasons only. Also the dampness is seen around Window parapet. The reason is the parapet wall containing iron has rusted & swollen thus opening cracks around the wall which cannot be repaired without breaking parapet & re-constructing it since re-plastering externally would not work for swollen Iron.
3. No; Dampness is not on all internal walls, but certainly on most external walls that do not have tiles applied.The dampness in the internal walls of the Bungalow is seen in patches at some places. The reason is because 15 years ago, to overcome this problem, we removed the 25 year old geru/Lime plaster (only upto cement level not brick level) that was present at that time and re-plastered and smoothened the rough walls with portland cement. In the process of doing so, wherever contractors overlooked removing some lime/Geru in patches is the place where we see circular dampness during rainy season only. I guess that absorbs humidity / dampness and stays there during rainy season.
4. Wherever Birla putty or POP or Lambi that comes in contact with such dampness, it disintegrates making the house so shabby that after every rainy season we have to start thinking of new color and fear of the next rainy season again.
5. Yes it is randomly occurring. Usually the dampness problem stays for 3 months only, but it plays havoc with the color. We have secured the terrace by putting a shed so the leakage is kept to minimum from top.
6) Yes it is a very high rainfall area. Lots of underground water at 6-7 feet in summer and during rains you should have guessed right that couple of feet below ground level is the water table level.
FYI, at Different instances, Painters have applied only Birla putty, in some instances they have mixed 1 parts POP and 1 part Birla Putty. and sometimes Lambi/POP is applied on it whenever it has been disintegrated in patches or full wall or partially, So now some layers are of Lambi and some layers are of POP/ Birla Putty and that is the reason, I wanted to remove all of it - go to the smoothened cement wall which has not disintegrated and use the correct method after getting your advise.
Dampness is the integral part of our region and is not specific to only our house, especially on the ground floor, and we have to find solution by taking it for granted that whatever we do dampness will stay, as we cannot eliminate 100% of it.
That was another reason we wanted to seek your advise if levelplast will also disintegrate like Birla wall putty when it comes in contact with Dampness? And what would be the best possible course of action. Thanks for your help in advance. I plan to start work tomorrow and need your advise urgently.
Thanks/AJAY
1. No. after chiseling the plaster the dampness is not in the bricks in Summer season at a height. We still noticed some dampness around 1 feet when we removed old mosaic tiles, but I don't remember having seen damp bricks above couple of feet height during summer.
Delete2. On the house exterior facing inner side of the walls (on 4 sides) the dampness rises around 5 to 6 feet internally during rainy seasons only. Also the dampness is seen around Window parapet. The reason is the parapet wall containing iron has rusted & swollen thus opening cracks around the wall which cannot be repaired without breaking parapet & re-constructing it since re-plastering externally would not work for swollen Iron.
3. No; Dampness is not on all internal walls, but certainly on most external walls that do not have tiles applied.The dampness in the internal walls of the Bungalow is seen in patches at some places. The reason is because 15 years ago, to overcome this problem, we removed the 25 year old geru/Lime plaster (only upto cement level not brick level) that was present at that time and re-plastered and smoothened the rough walls with portland cement. In the process of doing so, wherever contractors overlooked removing some lime/Geru in patches is the place where we see circular dampness during rainy season only. I guess that absorbs humidity / dampness and stays there during rainy season.
4. Wherever Birla putty or POP or Lambi that comes in contact with such dampness, it disintegrates making the house so shabby that after every rainy season we have to start thinking of new color and fear of the next rainy season again.
5. Yes it is randomly occurring. Usually the dampness problem stays for 3 months only, but it plays havoc with the color. We have secured the terrace by putting a shed so the leakage is kept to minimum from top.
6) Yes it is a very high rainfall area. Lots of underground water at 6-7 feet in summer and during rains you should have guessed right that couple of feet below ground level is the water table level.
FYI, at Different instances, Painters have applied only Birla putty, in some instances they have mixed 1 parts POP and 1 part Birla Putty. and sometimes Lambi/POP is applied on it whenever it has been disintegrated in patches or full wall or partially, So now some layers are of Lambi and some layers are of POP/ Birla Putty and that is the reason, I wanted to remove all of it - go to the smoothened cement wall which has not disintegrated and use the correct method after getting your advise.
Dampness is the integral part of our region and is not specific to only our house, especially on the ground floor, and we have to find solution by taking it for granted that whatever we do dampness will stay, as we cannot eliminate 100% of it.
That was another reason we wanted to seek your advise if levelplast will also disintegrate like Birla wall putty when it comes in contact with Dampness? And what would be the best possible course of action. Thanks for your help in advance. I plan to start work tomorrow and need your advise urgently.
Thanks/AJAY
Hi Ajay
DeleteThere are two things,
1. First is preserving the wall from High Water table in the Ground.
2. Second is the methodology of Plastering of the Walls
To have trouble free walls and prevent water rising through capillary action you have to go for a Chemical DPC or Chemical Damp Proofing Course in the walls.
This simple method and team of an experienced mason and a helper will be able to do it. The things needed are
1) Chemical in Liquid form Called “Samafit VK”, by MC-Bauchemie India Ltd. It would be available with any good Construction Chemicals vendor in your town.
2) A Drill machine
3) Small Plastic Funnel s that can stick on the holes drilled in the walls say 5 to 10 pcs
Method and Things to remember
1) Using a Drill machine drill holes in the effected wall in following manner.
a. The holes need to be about one foot apart and in a in a Zigzag pattern from each other.
b. The holes may be 12 to 20mm thick and drilled at 30 degrees decline to let the chemical flow in easily and stay there
c. You should drill the holes starting from the lowest possible point where DPC should have been near the ground and take them high up-to 5 feet height
d. The holes need to be drilled up-to 70% to 90% depth of the effected wall
2) Stick the plastic funnels in the drilled holes and slowly pour in the chemical called “Samafit VK”, till the holes are fully saturated. Let the wall absorb the chemical and keep pouring in the chemical seems to be steady in the funnel.
3) Main point is to fully saturate the walls with the Chemical.
This is a ready to use chemical and work very well with mineral substrate and brick walls.
This chemical DPC need to be done on all the walls where you see rising Dampness, you can drill holes from outside or inside. If the wall is thicker then you can drill holes from both sides.
The drilled holes should be repaired using a Polymerised mortar which you can make by using any good polymerising agent such a Nafufill BB2 or and good SBR available at your location.
The mixing ratio should be 1 Part Chemical (SBR) +3 Parts Water+ Sand and Cement
Now coming to the second thing the replastering work goes, following is the method to do it in your case.
1) Chisel out the existing Plaster Loose material.
2) Apply One Coat of Polymerising Bond coat before applying a Polymerised and Admixed
Plaster Coat using SBR and Crystalline Chemical in following manner
a. For Bond coat: 1 Part SBR Bonding Agent+3 Parts Water and Cement to make a slurry coat.
3) On this slurry coat apply 15 to 18 mm polymerise and admixed plaster.
a. To make polymerise Plaster : Add 2 Kg or SBR or Bonding Agent to 50 Kg of Cement to make the plaster and Admix with 1 Kg of Powder Crystalline chemical (MC-Special DM or similar) per 50Kg Cement .
The Chemical DPC and Plastering done through this will eliminate the rising dampness in the walls.
Do this in rainy season for proper results. Then later you can apply any finishing material of your choice.
Levelplast is also good and you can also consider texture finishes as per your liking.
Hope it helps.
Cheers
Hemant
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteMy house is 4 years old. The exterior has cemented plaster and rough. Now I have a plan to paint it. I am thinking to apply Dr. Fixit Fairing Mortar first, then Apex Ultima (without primer). Is Dr. Fixit Fairing Mortar is better than putty? Is my plan perfect? What do you suggest?
Hi Basu
ReplyDeleteJust see that you do not apply too much of Fairing Putty.
If its gets over smooth satin finish then I would not prefer it.
Apply enough to cover undulations only.
So go ahead.
Hope it helps
Cheers
Hello sir,
ReplyDeleteSeems your posts are very interesting and useful. My new home is ready with plaster finished and the plaster finish is rough in both exterior and interior side.
For Interior i will follow your earlier instructions to use POP for levelling and to get a smoot finish.
For Exterior i need your suggestion to smooth finish without putty, Can you please suggest the best ways.
Thanks,
Ragav
Hi Ragav
ReplyDeleteThank for the feedback.
If the exteriors are too rough then you can go for something called levelling plaster (Birla readyplast or similar) to level out the plastered surface.
This should be available at any good paint dealer/hardware and it will be required if you want a smooth and levelled final paint finish.
Alternativley you can also apply a thin 6mm to 8mm plaster by applying a bond coat of bonding agent of SBR ( A bonding Agent) based chemical.
Take 1 part Bonding Agent + 3 parts Water + Cement to make a brushable slurry and then apply an ordinary plaster
The bond coat should be wet when plaster is applied.
The bond coat is a must so that the leveling does not debonds or fall off later.
A third option will be to go for a Texture finish using a Trowel or Roller finish. As these would also act nice in hiding wall roughness
Hope it Helps
Cheers
Thanks for the update sir.
DeleteIn the meanwhile i got an contractor who given a demo POP application at my site. He applied the POP of 3 coats where i can see 4 MM increase in total. I did noticed your early post says a POP can maximum of an inch (20mm). Is there any minimum-maximum thickness of the layer should be? is 4 MM is enough/fine?
Please suggest thanks.
Hi Vendren
DeleteYe POP can go upto that thickness. If 4mm is covering undulations it is fine.
Tell the guy to check it with a straight edge/aluminium fanti.
Get one wall done first where there is Tube Light.
All the undulation shall be visible only in Tube light as in daytime the sunlight all the wall defects get hidden.
Cheers
Hemant
Nice info, thanks and will try and let you know.
DeleteRegards,
Ragav
Sir,
ReplyDeleteThanks for such an informative page.
My questions is very simple what should i do for our damped/moisture walls. We had put JK/birla putty mixing with tube colors 18monts back but now the wall conditions are very bad. Few of the walls (below 5 ft) get all the papri and all the putty had peeled of. Problem is that we have no neighbour and adjoin wall got the dampness similarly for outer portion . Our house (or area) near to canal (apprx 100 mts). Walls above 5-6 ft are ok but the lower portion is in very bad condition ..So what should I do? Which method/procedure is good? I am going for another paint before diwali.
Someone advised me to put tiles in all such walls..What do you think on this ?
Otherwise which is the best method for paint on damped/moisture walls ?
Kindly reply.
With regards
Mandeep
Hello Mandeep
DeleteIf its a brick wall, you need to apply a Chemical DPC or Damp Proofing Course. in the lower area of the wall.
This I have explained before also to Vijay
Chisel out the effected plaster upto one feet above the effected area
1) Using a Drill machine to drill holes in the effected wall in following manner.
a. The holes need to be about one foot apart and in a in a Zigzag pattern from each other.
b. The holes may be 12 to 20mm thick and drilled at 30 degrees decline to let the chemical flow in easily and stay there
c. You should drill the holes starting from the lowest possible point where DPC should have been near the ground and take them high up-to 5 feet height
d. The holes need to be drilled up-to 70% to 90% depth of the effected wall
2) Stick the plastic funnels in the drilled holes and slowly pour in the chemical called “Samafit VK”, till the holes are fully saturated. Let the wall absorb the chemical and keep pouring in the chemical seems to be steady in the funnel.
3) Main point is to fully saturate the walls with the Chemical.
This is a ready to use chemical and work very well with mineral substrate and brick walls.
This chemical DPC need to be done on all the walls where you see rising Dampness, you can drill holes from outside or inside. If the wall is thicker then you can drill holes from both sides.
Then you should re do the plaster using a Polymerising Agent as explained in previous posts.
Cheers
Hemant
That for all the information .
ReplyDeleteWe are constructing new house. Plastering was done both exterior and interiors walls some 3 months back. Now we are going for painting.
Our painting contractor suggested the following sequence:
For interiors: 2 coats of wall putty<primer< 2 coats of interior paint
for exterior: 1 coat of birla white cement < primer < 2coats of exterior paint
are birla white cement and primer both required on exterior? if 1 is sufficient pl. suggest the best.
Also pl. suggest best and cheaper sequence for both interior and exterior.
If POP is better than wall putty for interior is there any pop worker available in VIJAYAWADA.
Thanks
D Ram
Hello Ram
DeleteThere must be POP guys available in Vijaywada. I am from Jaipur so I cannot be sure about your place but I can give you one contact they may arrange one for you . Mr Prabhu + 98484-92331.
For Interiors : POP > Whiting Based Putty/or Ready made Acrylic Putty>A coat of Waterbased acrylic primer and two coats of Acrylic Emusion Paint
For Exteriors , if you insist on Putty then, there is no need of any Primer, make sure pre curing and post curing is done in hot tempratures. And Apply Good quality exterior paint paint from any brand directly as explained previously.
Cheers
Hemant
Thank you for your response.
DeleteWhat i mentioned for exteriors is white wash and not putty.
So, for exteriors is a coat of white wash required before primer < 2coats of exterior paint?
Thanks
Ram
Please do not use White wash , no need and not recommended ,
Deletestart with Primer and two to three coats of Paint
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteYour post seems relevant. But some of the points I cannot agree with you. I am from Kerala where we are experiencing the extreme climate conditions(heavy rain, humidity and hot weather in summer). So my experience with POP is very bad. Some of my clients had to remove all the POP within 2 rainy seasons. So please suggest answers based on client locations. Otherwise it may not be helpful for all. Here we found comfortable with Cement putty for both interior and exterior than POP or acrylic putty. Also applying in two coats is better than applying 1 thick layer. Only thing is to restrict the thickness to 1.5mm.
ReplyDeleteHi Manu,
DeleteIf water or moisture is getting in the wall, then any finishing system will fail and by finishing I mean Paint coating be it on POP or on a Cement Putty surface.
If You do not get the waterproofing right , then no use of a painting system as it will keep on failing.
Cement based putty does survive the moisture effect , but again if any paint system which may be Distemper or Acrylic Emulsion or what ever film forming coating ...it is bound to fail if it has to withstand moisture in the base surface.
I suggest POP for Interior finishing as for me the finishing is the main criteria if it is an internal space.
Cement Putty will never be able to hide the undulations with a 1.5mm thickness.
Yes, I agree fully to the thickness to Putty application keeping it to 1.5mm , but it fails miserably for an exterior paint application, you must have seen for yourself.
Putty has been a very well marketed product. That is my take.
But I would always avoid it for the reasons that I have understood over the years.
Cheers Hemant
Also I have noticed many companies using false information to cheat customer (i dont want to mention names). X company sells cement putty as polymer putty( fact is that almost all the manufactures use polymers as an additive to improve certain qualities of putty). Another paint company offer guarantee to paint only if their customer use their putty only( Fact- Most of the paint companies are not manufacturing cement putty. They are outsourcing putty from local market). So quality and coverage found more consistent in case of putty from white cement manufacturers itself.
ReplyDeleteTrue, the manufacturing process and the formulation is almost same for all the Cement Putty Brands.
ReplyDeleteThe top major brands manufacture the White Cement and then all other players blend it with additives , fillers and polymers to manufacturer Cement Putty as per their own quality standards. !!
I understand you have a rich experience in finishing systems. Thanks for your inputs
Cheers
Hemant
I am eagerly waiting for your advice for my previous post (reply).
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Ragav
My house is ready for paint. How do i begin?I a want a cost-effective solution.
ReplyDeleteHi Paribhasa
ReplyDeletePrevious Post have information on various Painting and Finishes.
Basic clarity one would need is as following
1) On Interiors is it POP or Non POP Surface ?
2) On Outside is the Plaster Surface Smooth or Rough ?
For Cost effective option on Interiors I would suggest going for Whiting Putty Based Surfacing, then a coat of Water borne Primer and then final two to three coats of an Acrylic Emulsion of any good company.
For exterior , if the surface is smooth plaster, then any economy range of exterior grade acrylic emulsion, apply first coat as a self primer and then two coats of finishing layers. No need of exterior primer.
Hope it Helps
Hemant
both interior and exterior have smooth cement plaster with 15 days curing.Should i go for acrylic putty or white cement based putty?
DeleteFor Interiors you may go in for Acrylic Putty and for exteriors you may go ahead with direct paint application
ReplyDeleteMy walls are ready for paint. But I have not smooth plaster on it I want suggestions from you. Please give suggestion for bath room sealing and utility walls and sealing
ReplyDeleteVeer , please go through my blog I have explained this in previous posts.
DeleteThanks.
What is good for new raugh wall? Its putty or pop
ReplyDeleteYou have to read the blog conversation, will give a clear idea. For finishing and good look it is always POP.
DeleteRegards
My external plaster is rough and internal plaster is with gypsum.. All plaster is done with readymix plaster. What is the good procedure for painting for both sides... Plastring work is done in rainy season. Please guide me what type of paints we use for external and internal in very economic way...
ReplyDeleteAsmita,
DeleteIf external plaster is rough go for a fairng plaster , it is also available as readymix , or alternatively you can go a thin finishing layer of plaster that is prepared in Polymarised chemical. An good quality "SBR" mixed to the sand cement plastering mix @ 2Kg per cement bag of 50Kg will give you a long lasting finish layer. Otherwise it shall crack.
For painting go for an exterior emulsion system. I have explaing the procedure in previous conversations.
For interiors also , go for a readymade acrylic putty as finishing base> water base primer and then any good quality acrylic emulsion system. No need to go for high end products like Velvet or Royale.
All my walls are plastered with lime wash and smooth finish. do i need to apply putty on this. pl suggest me the next process
ReplyDeleteHello Mr Readyy,
DeleteLime wash has to be removed completly for any finishing system to be done. removed and cleaned thoroughly befor you apply any finishing system.
Then if interiors surfaces for for a regular whiting based putty or readymade acrylic putty and follow procedures as explaine before in the posts
Hi i repainting my flat, earlier had used putty as a base, because of seepage the plaster is now visible. Seepage has now stopped. I had to get the ceiling repaired at various places with cement and sand mix, however i didn't use any water seepage products like dr. Fixit because my mason advised that these products are not successful if you do a plaster of ceiling and anyways it will be not successful if water comes from flat above. The repair work is now complete. I am now planning to get pop done on the ceiling and use putty for the walls, however this has still not started. Can you please suggest the following.
ReplyDelete1. Did i make a mistake by not using any seepage mix for ceiling repair. If yes what can be done now?
2. Is it ok to go for POP on ceiling only and putty on walls?
3. What is the process to paint after pop on ceiling.
4. What is the process of paint on the walls as i mentioned above plaster is now visible in certain patches on the wall.
Look forward to your answers.
HI Rakesh
ReplyDelete1) Yes it was wrong to not treat the surface that has to be painted for waterproofing. No painting system well last. Even by mixing Dr fixit additive it wont work. I understand there is a Bathroom above where the seepade is coming from. In this case you cant do anything from below. That bathroom surface has to be treated form above by your neighbour.
2) No POP or Putty will resist staying bonded if there is regular seepage from the other side. Cement Putty might remain but it would not prevenet paint from peeling off.3
3) After POP > Application of Finishing base either by readymade acrylic putty or by whiting based enamel putty, application of oone coat of primer , > application of two to three coats of acrylic emuslion paint of your choice.
4) First and foremost prevent water/moisture from entering the wall. Get a good applicator of waterproofing systems not a painter or a mason to do the job.
Regards
My house is 3 years old with normal cement+sand plaster. Please suggest the best process to paint the exterior and interior at this stage
ReplyDeleteHi Chandreshekhar
ReplyDeleteFor Exteriors, > Directly apply Exterior Grade Emulsion Paint, with first coat as self primer , with water dilution up to 50% to 60%. And the rest two coats as normal dilution of upto 20% to 30%
For Interiors
Base Preparation by whiting based putty or ready made acrylic putty, > application of water borne primer > and application of any economic acrylic emulsion of your choice.
Cheers
White cement wash over 3 years old plaster is good or bad process, my painter and dealer forcing me to white cement wash before exterior paint.
DeleteHi Chandrashekhar
DeleteIts Ok to have a white cement wash, but not a necessity !
its just done to make surface look white and decent enough before any paint work is done on the walls.
There is not need for Cement Wash at all before starting any paint work now.
Just slightly sand, wash the walls and when dry start the paint process as explained above.
Cheers
Hi I am also going for Wall Putty. Just want to know technically which wall putty is better choice ( Asian, JK or Birla ) As v know that interior always suggest by focusing their margin.
ReplyDeletePlease suggest.
HI Japesh
ReplyDeleteTechnically all are same. Some brands are even repackaged versions.
Take care that the application method should be properly followed as per the technical data sheet of the products.
That is all.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteFirst of all I appreciate the good work being done on this blog. Comments are very useful and give you insight around paints and discussion with painters.
I have new built home with interior paintable area of around 15000 Sq ft. As per your post earlier i would like to avoid cement based putty and go for our traditional putty based on the enamel and chak mitti. Painters are however pushing for the cement based putty (not sure if it is commision or the extra labor for them)
If i am correct, cement wall putty cover min 10 Sq ft / KG in 2 coats for 1.5 MM covering. With that logic it would be cost Rs 2 - 2.5 sq ft.
Pl could you help me to find out the cost of using traditional enamel based putty i.e. How much is it going to cost per Sq ft if we go for enamel + chak based putty ?
I think enamel paint costs around Rs 4000 for 20 L.
Thank you
Kamal Nagpal
I did some more researching around on option of using enamel paint and chalk mitti as base.
ReplyDeletefor 11X11 room , area of 450 Sq ft, it would cost appx rs 1100 with cement wall putty of Jo or birla
Enamel paint putty wouild cost around 3 - 3.5 ltrs of enamel and chall mitty , appx Rs 800 per room of 450 Sq ft. Adding primer to it would add 150-200 bucks taking total cost to appx Rs 1000.
Total difference of Rs 150 - 200 per room if we go for wall putty.
Please confirm if this is correct and why should we not use wall putty in case cost difference is so less
regards
Kamal
Hi Kamal
DeleteI got delayed in replying due to projects. Any-ways checking back this space after a long time.
There would be at least 3 Coats of Putty to be done to get some amount of levelness. Point to understand is that in case of Cement based putty it starts to crack if the thickness of the application goes above 2mm.
It is more brittle by nature then the normal Whiting and Enamel Based putty.
Also the cost difference will be more if the same levelness has to be achieved as that can be done by regular whiting putty.
Hope it helps
Hemant
your blog is quite informative..
ReplyDeletei made my home 3 year back... we then simply apply colourfull samosam on interioe and exterior walls. now we are think to paint the walls. i need your advice what method i have to follow to have good interior and exterior walls. we had not use any putty and pop on any wall. is it is necessary to apply putty or pop or we can apply simple primer.. plz advice i have no idea about walls painting method.
regards
raj sharma
Hi Anurag
DeleteThe Steps are
For Exteriors in Case of Smooth Plaster
> Sanding off the existing cement paint.
> Washing the walls
> Letting the walls dry
> Application of one thin coat of any good brand exterior paint. ( No need of primer) ( Take Paint and Water as 1:1 or more)
> Apply two to three coats of Paint diluted as 20% to 30% with water
For Interiors in case of smooth plaster (and no budgets for POP)
> Sand of the existing cement paint
> Wash of the walls
> After drying , applying whiting based putty
> Apply water based acrylic primer ( you can also tint it with the shade that you will finally apply as paint)
> Apply Paint of any good acrylic emulsion grade. No need for Distemper. This should set in two coats if the primer has been pre tinted with the final shade that has to come on walls. Else it might take 3 coats of paint.
Alternately If you want to go for better finish using POP then punning has to be done or chiselling of plaster has to be done to make it rough enough for POP to anchor.
The follow the procedures as explained previously in various post.
Cheers
Hope it helps.
Cheers
hi,
ReplyDeletei've been an active reader of your blogs. its wonderful to have such indepth description of these products.
we are into construction of apartments using tunnel form work technologies. aka maivan technologies.
as you would know these are byitself a finished product, once concreting is done using these panels, there is no need for plastering of walls.these systems help in reducing construction cost. but we have reached to a stage where we may have to spend more on the external finish, since these concrete walls are covered wit honeycombs and lots of pores.( we have used vibrators immensely to reduce them and also additives in the concrete)
the idea of finished surface seems defeated as we have to either texture paint (costly) OR putty apply method
our idea was just for primer and 1 coat of emulsion. ( these are homes for the lower economy group).
contractors have suggested methods of reducing cost by
1)telling to spray paint the putty and then do a coat of primer+ emulsion on fresh concrete walls
2)there are few walls already done with primer and 1 coat emulsion which does not cover the pore holes and honeycombs. here the contractor says that we can spray paint acrylic putty mixed with stainer over the completed emulsion wall.i have my doubts that anything will adhere over emulsion and just stopping wth putty as final layer without emulsion ( he gives 3 yearrs warranty)
3)spray paint "level putty" AKA coarse putty and direct paint without primer as some putty brands sell saying primer not needed over their putty, on freash concrete walls
i know that putty is not a recommended option reading your blogs, but is there an cheaper alternative.
thank you. look forward for your help.
Hello Jerry
DeleteYou need something called Profile Correction Skim Coat. It would be much cheaper then White Cement putty and also it is possible to apply it in thickness of 1mm to 10mm so it would tackle all you surface finishing problems.
You can apply your regular Acrylic Emulsion Paint with the smooth finished maintained.
Steps would be.
1) Apply Skim Coat for Profile Correction, like Putty Knives
2) Apply One Self Priming Coat , tinted with the shade of your Final Emulsion Paint
3) Apply 2 Coats of Final Emulsion Coat.
I would not suggest texture systems as they tend to hold dust and thus stain the whole structure in rains. They go specially bad with lighter shades.
If you want technicals on a product like this ,shoot a mail on "mail@technotrade.in"
Hope it Helps
Cheers
thanks a lot sir,
Deletebut which brands sell these "profle correction skim coat"? heard of leveling putty but not this.
whats the best solution to redo a already apinted wall ( primer and 1 coat emulsioned wall)
Hi Jerry
DeleteFor Profile Correction I would suggest somehing Lanko 112. I can share the TDS with you if you want. It is a suitable product for Concrete Profile Correction Jobs.
Well redoing a wall already painted !
So What do you want to finish it with ?
Please confirm if its its the Interior or Exterior Surface you want to correct.
I understand if acrylic putty is being suggested it is interiors.
If its interiors I suggest slight sanding by 60 no Sandpaper , and application of One Coat of Tinted Primer with very high quality of bonding , something like Beck Primebond. And then a coat of Acrylic Emusion of your choice.
Currently Pin Holes in interiors may be repaired by acrylic putty only. As acrylic will bond with the acrylic emusion coating already done. Enusre slight sanding to recreate anchoring.
Hope it helps
An error that was Lanko 113. the skim coat not 112 .
DeleteDear sir
ReplyDeleteplastering of my house has completed 15 days back.is there any need to wait for 4 to 6 months before application of putty.i got advise from many people that all cracks will come out in 4 months so if I applied putty before 4 months it will spoil putty application too. And is there any need to apply putty in ceiling to get good finishing.
kindly advise
Regards
Rajesh
Hi Rajesh
DeleteIf you want to go ahead with Putty this is your choice. You can always apply cement putty on fresh plaster also after a week. The cracking tendency is natural in cement based putty due to the brittle nature of the product.
If you leave it for couple of months unpainted then do remember to sand it thoroughly as there are additive added in it to create a self sealing effect for smoothness which ultimately hampers paint anchoring to the surface and thus reduces its life.
And Interior finish always comes better with POP.
Please read previous discussion to understand better.
Hope it Helps
I am from kerala. My new house is single floor and its flat roof and its around 2500sqft. I have plastered roof terrace with dr.fixit and water wont stagnate in rainy season. And now how I need to paint terrace or just white Wasing with white cement is enough.
ReplyDeleteKindly advise
Regards
Rajesh
Rajesh Its your choice and how much you want to spend for smooth even finish.
DeleteBest option is always POP for the best finish.
And Do you want to Paint "Terrace" or The "Ceiling"
You may apply White Cement Wash also as it will be be most economical option for now. You can go in for Paint finishing later.
You may also apply White Cement Putty diluted like a Paint. As it wont need curing like apply plain white cement would need. Just remember to pre wet the surface before application.
Hope it helps
i'm constructing my house and contracted a painter and pop worker and they are doing pop on wall and said that after pop they will apply chalk putty i don't know if it will be good? or should i ask him to mix primer or some other thing with pop co'z he's using pop with salty water??
ReplyDeleteand for paint should what should i choose royale vs oil or recommend any other that gives decent finish will give decent finish??
one more question that he's not recommending me to use decorative wall bracket corner sand beading by saying that it won't be durable and will come off?? what should i do ??
Hello Lakshya
DeleteThis process is Ok . Ensure they use First Quality of Enamel Paint and First Quality of Clear Varnish and high quality "Porbandar" Whiting or Chalk Mitti Powder.
Alternatively I suggest ready to use acrylic putty of any good brand , will be faster to do and also good finish on POP.
No you cant mix primer with POP.
No One does Oil Paint on walls these days. Go for decent quality Acrylic Emulsion Royal is a High Sheen finish. You can consider little lower sheen premium emulsions of your preferred brand.
I don't think that if properly installed these brackets will come off !! They are replacing handmade cornices due to finish evenness and quick installation.
Hope it helps.
Thanks for such a informative blog, except this no page is available on google.
ReplyDeleteFrom you previous comments i have to go for POP on ceiling but i am still in doubt whether i sud go for POP or Putty Or simple white cement.If White cement then how many coat.Not planning for paint recently. Want to use reasonable thing.
Please ignore previous ..
ReplyDeleteThanks for such a informative blog, except this no page is available on google.
From you previous comments i have decided to go for POP on ceiling but i am still in doubt for wall whether i sud go for POP or Putty Or simple white cement.If White cement then how many coat.Will it be cost effective to use paint for white cement.
Not planning for paint recently. Want to use reasonable thing.
One more query ,Can I use white cement wash on ceiling instead of paint over the POP.
ReplyDeleteHi Sumit
ReplyDelete1) POP will give the best finish in Interiors.
2) If you want to wait and Paint walls later, I suggest Apply White Cement wash, with proper pre and post curing. You may add some cement colouring compound like yellow oxide tinter for a cream shaded effect.
3) 3 Coats should be sufficient for it.
4) You you may use white cement wash on ceiling also and later when you go for paint you can go for complete POP finish.
Hope it Helps
Hi,
ReplyDeleteLuckily today i was able to go through your blog, since we have very poor knowledge about paintings, request your recommendations on process and type of painting to be applied. I'm looking for good quality and longer duration. following is my contractor recommendation for my new house.
for interior - he has recommended two coat jk cement putty and two coat tractor emulsion. Infact the one coat putty is already applied.
for exterior- Whitewash is in progress and he would be applying Asian ACE weather proof.
Naveed
ReplyDeleteInteriors already one coat of Putty is applied , So just finish with it now. I would say in Cement Putty you would need 3 Coats.
There is no need for White Wash in Exteriors. Apply thinned Ace first coat with equal quantity of water and let it be the primer coat and then apply two coats thinner normally with water as per comoany recommended ratios mentioned on the Pack.
Hope it Helps
A/A dear brother,
ReplyDeleteYour blog is quite informative and helped me to develop some understanding of the subject. I must thank you for your valuable contribution. God bless you.
Now my query:
I just finished applying cement sand mixture on interior walls & ceiling.
Kindly tell me the best possible option for the walls.
1. Is there any option wherein I can mix some coloring agent to PoP/White Cement/Putty and apply without a further need to paint.
2. Or can I directly paint my interiors without needing PoP/White Cement/Putty.
3. If both are necessary, kindly elaborate.
4. Or is there any other option available.
Kindly keep in mind that I live in Kashmir and therefore, it should be winter friendly; the surface should be as bad conductor as possible, i.e. the heat should not escape to the surroundings from inside and cold should not get into the rooms from outside. Like the wood paneling is best suited for such climate.
Thanking you.
Yours sincerely,
Ummar Muhammad
Thanks Ummar Bhai
Delete1) No I would not suggest adding colourant or tinter to POP / Putty as this will look quite uneven.
2) POP layer is needed to make the surface of the wall absolutely level and plain so that the final paint finish looks even , graceful and without waves. As premium and costlier paints tend to have a sheen and thus make look undulations out stand even more. POP layer reduces these undulations. The function of a Putty base using products such as Acrylic Putty or Whiting based putty to make it even more level for a fine quality finish and to make a good stable base for the paint coating.
3) If you directly paint, the smooth and level finish wont come. Even if you use expensive quality of paints
4) I suggest from Plaster : (Make it broom finish) > POP layer > Acrylic Readymade Putty> Waterbased acrylic Primer > Any decent acrylic emulsion paint with mid sheen finish.
POP Should act a little bit thermal barrier but not much as basic principal of thermal insulation is creating gaps or vacum between transmitting or radiating surfaces.
If insulation of your primary criteria then , just seal the plastered surface with two coats of primer admixed with anti termite chemical and then install the wooden panels with due treatment.
Paints Technology had advanced to a level where you can achieve high reflectance and thus reduce heating effect in strtures but as of now no insulation painting systems are available in the market.
May be outside the home you can select warmer shades that may absorb more of solar radiation to heat up the structure a bit.
Hope it helps.
Wish you a happy new year.
Cheers
Respected sir,Iam jeyaraman from chennai,recently I engaged a painting contractor for remodeled house. He adviced me for newly plastered area first apply brilla white cement after wetting the wall,then for old area removing paint and apply Asian acrylic primer(white) and also for the brilla white cemented area for interior and exterior walls.Then for interior walls wall putty (Powder form) before applying paint.for exterior wall no putty is required.Direectly apply ultimate Asian paint. He told me that putty material itself is PoP.but iam not convinced by this .I want todo pop putty for interior and for celling also.Is it correct.I thought that pop is only for falls roofing and unaware of using putty. Now at rainy season there is small wetting noticed at wall corner.But no crack. We completed mason jobs four months back.Pl.advice and guide me.My dought is a separate man will do this pop putty.sincemy painter is not encourage me. Now i removed all old paint by using AG-4 machine,now painter is applying Brilla white,next primer and I thought doing putty job after finishing electrical writing.Is it necessary to do applying wall paint immediate after putty. He suggeted me to mix Dr.Fixit URP along with primer to avoid.Is it correct? Iam very much impressed with your valuable advice .Iam a senior citizens .In my earlier construction I used only super sum powder by applying water on the wall.even after 20yrs.that is strong and not faded ,could not scraped by manual. Thank you.Iam waiting for earnest advice.
DeleteGreetings Sir
DeletePainter will not be able to do POP. For POP you need a POP applicator who will do it in good level and plumb.
First Treat any waterproofing issues in the structure. Else whatever you will apply will get effected by moisture and wont last long.
Putty is NOT Pop, Putty is a sealing base on POP surface or plastered surface to provided a proper base for paint to anchor.
NO just mixing Dr Fixit URP is not the way to treat a waterproofing issue. Your painter is not guiding you properly. Please get it looked by a Waterproofing Contractor to get the problem identified and treated by an expert.
Painters are just experience with Putty and Paint work only and generally misguide the clients to get the work done fast and make a quick buck.
For Interiors if you are going in for total remodelling please do the plaster in broom finish if you want to apply POP layer for better finishing. If plaster has already been done and you still want to use POP then you will have to chisel the smooth plaster a bit so as to get some anchoring for POP layer. This is called Punning. A pop contractor will do it.
On a smooth plaster why waste money on white cement putty. Just use normal whiting and enamel based putty based and water based primer and then paint it with a normal economy first quality emulsion.
If you want a better (also little expensive) quality of base then you may go in for readymade acrylic putty paste by any of the good brands like Asian or Berger or Jenson Nicholson or Rajdoot.
Also wiring lines will get hidden properly only under a POP layer as the thickness is more. Putty thickness is only around 1.5mm to 2mm at max , POP can go Up-to an Inch thick and thus give walls an unblemished look.
For exterior you may not need all of the cement wash that you have done. You may directly apply paint after little sanding of the old cement washed surface. Apply a cost of exterior acrylic primer and then apply two coats of an acrylic paint of your choice.
If there are cracks or potholes to be repaired use a bonding agent commonly called SBR of MC-Bauchemie or Fosroc or SIKA or CICO to repair these . The repairing mortar has to be prepared as 1 Part SBR + 2 Parts Water+Cement+Sand(Equal parts) to make the mortar paste for repairing for conducting any repair in your renovation project.
Hope it helps
Happy New year and all the best with you project.
Hope it helps
Thanks a lot, we are done with pop over ceiling and two coat of putty on interior walls .now for paint I want to do. Later on after a year.
ReplyDelete1. can I leave it as it is?
2.apply primer one coat and leave.
3. It is necessary to apply primer and paint both.?
Which brand and quality is best and economical for interior .?
Hi Sumit
ReplyDeleteYou may leave putty surface sealed with a coat of a primer. Later on you can apply final paint coats. Apply a Water based acrylic primer for this purpose.
Dear Brother your blog is very good & learned a lot from it.
ReplyDeleteI have a Query -
I want to get my house internal walls & ceiling painted up with Asian paint Royale emulsion, but as you suggest to for POP on the walls for best result, I want advice on the same.
My house has been painted previously many times & has 2 - 3 coats of Birla wall putty on it. So I need advice -
1. What to do if I have to get it POP on walls
2. Or I shall apply acrylic wall putty (instead of POP) on walls & then get it painted up.
3. My roof ceiling already had POP design on it but not smoothen with POP & look uneven on lighting up even walls has the same problem
4 How to get rid of undulations in walls & ceilings
please suggest & also let me know the right painting process for old walls
Hello Mr Kuntall
DeleteThanks for appreciating
1) The Putty base have to be chipped off. POP guy will do it.
2) Royale wont come out well without POP finish. You will not get the bang for your money in term of finishing by using Royale without a POP base.
3) You may go in for regular emulsion on existing base.
4) It will be a one time expense to go for POP but if you understand what smooth finishing and level are all about then you should go for POP on walls
Hope it helps.
I am going to paint my new house. The contractor is suggesting to go for putty/white cement, then prima and lastly the paint. My question is whether I can go for white cement for now and go for painting after 3-4 years.
ReplyDeleteI also want to know the cheapest option for painting the exterior and interior and also the longevity of the same. Regards,
Hi Mousumi
DeleteYes You may go in for a White Cement Wash for now and paint later on.
Remember to pre wet the walls before applying cement wash and also to cure it for at-least 4 days.
When every you want to paint in future, following is the most economically viable option for a decent finish.
1) Light Sanding
2) Repairs of any crack and potholes by using any powdered form crack repair filler such as MC-Sunfilla or some other similar type.
3) Apply a coat of water based acrylic primer
3) Apply Whiting based putty on the surface to smooth out the base
4) apply water based primer, you should tint the primer with tinter that you wanna go for in the final coats of paints
5) Apply 2 coats of economy emulsion
Done
Hope it helps
I am going to paint my new house, I want to know the cheapest option for painting the exterior and interior and also the longevity of the same. Regards,
ReplyDeleteHi Sankar
DeleteI have described the economical method of interior painting above already.
For exteriors I am writing tips below for an economy system. I am not recommending cement wash but instead economy exterior emulsion like ace or similar.
1) On existing smooth plaster conduct repairs as required for cracks and potholes in a similar fashion as required above for interior plaster.
2) Apply one thin coat of paint as a self primer. Thin coat means 1 part paint and one part water in equal measures.
3) Apply two final coats of paint diluted as per recommended ratio i.e. 20% to 30% with water.
For economy purpose do not ever use lime wash. As it might create future bonding issues with painting systems.
Alternate to this is cement wash in the shade of you choice with proper pre and post curing. As an option you may add something like Smartbond 100 or similar SBR system to the paint as 1 kg Chemical to 1 50Kg Sack of Cement Paint. This will provide additional durability to the system.
hope it helps
This is an automatic message from DISQUS.
ReplyDeleteDear Sir,
ReplyDeleteI would like to repaint 10 y old house, painted 2 times (Asian paints)
I would like to apply putty for interior walls & ceilings, since waves are there.
Before approaching painters I need advise from professionals like you.
If you can give your valuable comments and procedures for this scenario, it will be a great help. Gone through all the posts, but couldn't find one with relates to mine. Sorry for the inconvenience.
Thanks and regards
Dear Sir,
ReplyDeleteI would like to paint my new house interior, its only done pastering with cement
Before approaching painters I need advise from professionals like you.
how many coats of putty,and paints required (Asian paint Royal shyne)
If you can give your valuable comments and procedures for this scenario, it will be a great help. Gone through all the posts, but couldn't find one with relates to mine. Sorry for the inconvenience.
Thanks and regards
dear sir
ReplyDeleteI am planning to paint my new teak wood doors for my new house.its around nine teak wood doors. I dont want to go for melamine polish as it is costly . please advise how to paint it with enamal paint or others and its pros and cons.
Regards
Rajesh
sir, can we avoid cement plaster when using flyash brick wall as local mansor r unable to plaster over flyash brick so can we save cost by directly going for wally puty over exterior and pop over interior walls ? since its industrial building n boundary wall so cheaper options of distemper, whitewash, chuna, etc. will be applied over the exterior wall after wally puty how durable is such a wall ?
ReplyDeleteHello
DeleteIf you want to avoid plaster and also want to achieve a smoother coat then, you may go in for Profile Correction Skim coat.
It can be applied for a thickness of upto 10mm. If this much layer thickness is enough for the Fly Ash wall then try it. It may be directly painted over without any need of putty or base work
Hope it Helps
Hemant
Hi. This is Vivek. We are in the process of starting the painting for our interiors. The apartment we have brought is around a year old and people have started staying there since one year. I need your help on two queries
ReplyDelete1) The builder has handed over the house and he has used tractor emulsion. Now our painter is suggesting a cpat of acrylic putty for entire house and then two coats of any paint that we select. Please advise if this is the right approach
2) For one of the bathrooms on the exterior walls, there is powdering and flaking of paint upto 2 feet from the floor. While the builder is trying to fix the root cause in the bathroom, for the exterior walls we are planning one coat of Dr. Fixit then a coat of Birla putty then acrylic putty and two coats of paint. Would this be correct process to avoid further dampening and flaking, peeling or powdering of paint. Please advise
Hello Vivek
Delete1) Ya it is Ok. After scraping off the Tractor Emuslion completely, an acrylic putty base work will enhance the finish. You may go ahead with it.
2) No this wont help. Until and unless the waterproofing treatment is done for the sunken area, and any leakage in pipes is not repaired, it wont help putting any white cement putty or Dr Fixit coating.
By the way, Accrylic Putty is not meant for exterior generally. Please check the product if its ok for exterior use and anyways you dont need to do cement putty also and acrylic putty also , doesnt make any sense
Hope it helps
Hemant
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI wanted to get My house interior to be painted after 8yrs and i wanted to go for Asian Royale paint.
So before that i would like to mention about the work done before 8yrs-
cement Walls >Lime coating> asian acrylic wall putty 2 coats
thats all no primer no coloring done from 8yrs,
so when i contacted the paint contractor now he said its already coated with 2 coats of putty 8yrs back he would recommend with priming and coloring only and No royale paint can be applied as the wall as many uneven surface. And he would not recommend for one more coat of acrylic putty to level the walls bcos there would be chances of peeling as it was coated on lime plaster but there is no problem of moisture in my house it is perfectly dry in all the season. But he says he never recommends POP for this work
So my query is should i go for one or two more coats of putty to level the wall to apply royale or i should drop that plan and go for normal asian premium paint. Or is there any other solution for this. Can u plz recommend how many coats can be done and how it should be done.
HI Sanathkumariah
DeleteDrop the plan of Royal or Premium Sheen based paint. Your painter is an intelligent guy.
Go for normal acrylic emulsion.
But how come Lime Coating > Asian acrylic wall putty, this is a weird combination!
if you want to improve the finish > may go in for extensive sanding and apply acrylic putty in one coat to improve undulations.
Then a coat of waterbased acrylic primer and then normal finish acrylic emulsion
Regards
hemant
Hi,
DeleteThanks for the valuable input. But now Asian royale is needed so now can I go with POP to level the walls will this be expensive procedure as my walls are like
Cement wall-> lime coating-> acrylic putty -> 8yrs back -> now POP-> primer-> acrylic -> primer-> royale paint.
So will this procedure is correct and no flaking happens later. And also some other painters here says go for birla putty than POP so I am totally confused.
So Can u please finally recommend the proper way to go ahead. And your advice would be most valuable in deciding in which way I should go. Thank you
Well if you are ready to spend the money then
DeleteYou have to call a POP guy who will first do punning or chiselling of the existing surface to create anchoring for POP layer.
Also remember to sand off as much lime surface as you can so that the left over lime does not create boding problems with the new surface.
Then follow the painting method as described for Royale.
Hope it helps
Hi Hemant,
ReplyDeleteThis is Subhra from kolkata in hope of ur wonderful advice. I'm renovating 1st flr of our 50 yr old home. Interior walls had 3-4 coats of lime paint in these yrs. some walls also have new plasters. So my questions are
1) some streaks of lime paint remains however hard the walls are scraped. my painter tells to use one coat of cement primer before applying putty becoz of alkaline nature of lime painted walls. Is it ok?
2) acrylic putty (asian) can be put directly on new plasters?
waiting fr ur response
subhra
Hi Subhra
Delete1) Please go for interior acrylic primer that is water based of first quality. Then you may apply Acrylic Putty 2 to 3 coats
2) No I do not advice direct application of Acrylic Putty, a coat of acrylic primer is advised.
Do not go for premium sheen finish paints like Roayale Sheen or Velvet Touch , go for regular first quality acrylic emlusions
Hope it helps
Hemant
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeletePlease can you suggest me list of product names to use for my new house interior and exterior painting
Hello
ReplyDeleteI would suggest material types. All the known brands have got comparable products. Rather, after painting if you call the salesmen of these companies to your house even they would not what has been used for executing the paint job.
But Here is a summary of things for Exteriors
On outside walls do Plaster in two layers, 12mm then 10mm with admixture to improve quality and water resistance. > Apply any good quality exterior paint directly , First coat thinned like a primer as 1:1 and next two coats with 30% to 40% dilution as recommended by the company. My Fav are Weathershield by Akzon and Beck Exguard by Dr Beck
On Inside Walls
For very good premium finish
Plaster in Broom Finish > Apply POP in water level > apply one coat of acrylic primer > acrylic putty in two or three coats > one coat of acrylic primer > two or three coats of premium emulsion of your choice that may be Velvet Touch by Akzo or Royal or by Berger .
For Wood Polish > Waterbased PU Polish
For Enamel Paints > In Interiors m Satin / Semi Gloss finish enamels On exteriors > High Gloss enamels as dust will be easy to clean on gloss enamels.
Hope you have got some idea.
Sir,
ReplyDeletemy newly plastered walls with course red sand.i think to follow water primar base coat-->jk wall putty singl coat-->primar-->asian plastic paint.
plz suggest me correct process and product for finished wall and washable when spoted.plz tell me best and economical priduct and process.
preet
Hi Sonali.
DeleteIs this interiors ? If this is interiors , just apply normal whiting putty . Why wasting money on White Cement Putty will achieve the same finish.
Plaster> Sanding > Acrylic Primer > Whiting Based Putty or Acrylic Based Putty (lill expensive) 2 or 3 layers > Acrylic Primer > Two or Three Coats of Acrylic Paint. On Acrylic Putty you may forgo primer.
for my new flat out side cement base paint done by builder and for inside wall I think apply Dr. Fixit LW+ at the time of plaster then POP then Acrylic Primer and then final paint is it OK guide me..
ReplyDeleteHi Bitan
DeletePlaster > POP > Sanding > Acrylic Primer > Whiting or Acrylic Putty > Acrylic Primer > Acrylic Paint Paint
Please go through the blog and other conversation to get a full idea.
Dear Hemant,
ReplyDeleteI am new to your blog, got very informative.
For newly constructed house, plasting has been completed with rough finish on internal walls. Normally rough finish of external walls.
My painter suggesting as below:
External walls:
1 coat Birla white cement (to fill air cracker in case)
1 coat primer
2 coat Apex
Internal walls:
2 coat birla putty
1 coat Asian putty
1 coat primer
2 coat asian paint
Grills:
1 coat zinc/grey putty
2 coat ENAMEL
GATES:
2 coat - STEEL PUTTY
2 coat - SPARY DUCO PAINT
Would you please confirm above and also suggest if any correction to the above process?
Thanks in advance....
Hi
DeleteFor External Walls No need of Cement Paint Coat.
For Internal Walls, I never suggest Cement Putty. Go for POP>Primer>Putty > Paint
Grills > Please go for Primer Surface or something like duco oil pimer or atleast good quality red oxide primer , zince/grey Putty is for levelling and surfacing, do not miss out on primer,
same goes of gates., for Duco Spray paint
Sanding of Surface> Duco Putty and Duco Primer application with Duco Thinner used to prepare the base, and Duco thinner used for Duco Spray paint ..
Hope it helps
i had recently notices minute cracks in the wall.in summer it may get more wider .what all precautions should i take to stop it.is it advisable to apply 2-3 coats of wall putty?
ReplyDelete